Landmarks change with time. Today, it may be the Government Hospital or Express Avenue for Royapettah. But a century ago, emerald green fields where betel leaves were cultivated extensively gave a distinct look to Royapettah. The flora and fauna of the area has been vividly captured by freedom fighter, Tamil scholar, and trade unionist Thiru. Vi. Kalyanansundaram, well-known to the world as Thiru. Vi. Ka.
“Even though there are no mountains, waterfalls, forests or sea, it was blessed with nature that would remind us of forests, mountains, waterfalls and sea. Lines and lines of wooden logs covered with emerald green betel creepers and with a slight bend resemble lines of mountains,” he writes in his memoir Thiru. Vi. Ka. Vaazhkai Kurippukal, which was first published in 1944.
Though born and brought up in Chennai, Thiru became part of the names of the members of the family as their ancestors were from Tiruvarur. Known for the prowess of his prose style, Thiru. Vi. Ka’s memoirs unfold before the eyes of a reader the socio-political movements, and personalities between the last two decades of 19th century and 50 years of the 20th century.
He has written about Arimuthu Mudaliar, a native of Mangadu, but one who moved to Royapettah to cultivate betel leaves. He was an expert in ancient secret fighting methods and was capable of felling an enemy by merely attacking their veins, Thiru Vi. Ka. recounted. He also narrated in an incident how in a flash he could make a thief fall unconscious and wake him after the arrival of policemen.
Thiru. Vi. Ka has named at least 25 gardens that existed in Royapettah and varieties of trees and birds that existed there. The road between Royapettah and Mylapore was dotted with betel leaf fields, banana and coconut groves, sugarcane and paddy fields, and a variety of trees.
“How will I explain the spread of these gardens?,” he said while regretting that they gradually fell prey to rapid urbanisation.
The root cause, he added, lies in the conversion of Mylapore lake, spreading till Teynampet area, into T. Nagar. “The old Royapetta will not scorch people even during summer. It also remains the best place for entertainment,” he recorded.
He made a special reference to entertainment, since there were a lot of wrestling grounds, particularly in Kanni Thottam, Ayya Mudali Street, Ambattan Chandran Thennanthoppu, and in the corner of Kolakkaran Thoppu. Silambam and handling of knives were also taught. “The best aspects of Silambam would be on display during the Muharram procession,” he described .
“Every Sunday, the wrestling grounds will witness cock-fighting, pigeon racing. It is terrible to see cock-fighting and I requested Vadivel Mudalaiar to stop the event. But he told me I would appreciate it once I became an adult,” he wrote.
