One of the places that local well-wishers reminded me to visit in Trinidad and Tobago was Nelson Island, which is integrally associated with the Indian indenture history. It’s no different from any other island in the Gulf of Paria in the west of Trinidad and Tobago, but its idyllic presence makes it photogenic and serene.
Nelson Island is not one island but a cluster of six tiny islands: Caledonia, Craig, Lenagan, Rock, Pelican, and Nelson Islands. A narrow reef connects Craig and Caledonia, which are rich in marine flora and fauna and wildlife diversity. So is their history. The buildings on these islands were the first concrete structures built by enslaved Africans in 1803 in Trinidad.
The island has been named after its British owner Neilson. The spelling evolved over the years from “Neilson” to “Nelson”.
The Governor’s message published in The Trinidad Chronicle of February 15, 1867, mentions “Neilson’s Island” and making a provision of £208 to purchase the buildings on the island for the use of indentured immigrants.
The very first inhabitants were the Amerindian people, the Warao. Before the 15th century trans-Atlantic contact period, the island was used as a trading post by the indigenous people inhabiting Trinidad and the South American mainland. In the Spanish colonial period, the island was stationed between Trinidad and other South American coasts. Subsequently, the British used the island as the first port of call for Indian indentured labourers as a quarantine and immigration station between 1866 and 1917.
Humber was the first ship carrying indentured labourers that anchored at Nelson Island in 1866. According to the Humber General Register of December 26, 1866, she brought 473 immigrants comprising 329 men, 84 women, 32 boys and 14 girls. In the beginning, the island’s Immigration Depot provided accommodation for approximately 450 people. By 1881, it was enlarged to hold 600 persons, and by 1912, there was accommodation for 1,000 persons. Upon arrival on the island, the standard practice was that immigrants were to sit in the assembly area and be addressed by the Protector of Immigrants with the help of Hindi and Urdu interpreters. They also read their contracts. Most immigrants spent about 10 days on the island before being transferred to work on the estates. One island was used for men, the other for women, and the third for foodgrains and funeral. The quarantine station built in 1802 stands on the island to date.
Once a ship is anchored on the island, it is inspected; food, stores and immigrants’ bundles and blankets are fumigated. These quarantine measures were designed to prevent the spread of diseases, mainly smallpox and measles. After the doctor examined all immigrants, the healthy ones were immediately sent to estates to work; the sick ones to the Colonial Hospital in Port of Spain, and those who only needed rest were kept at the depot in Port of Spain.
At present, Nelson Island functions as a heritage site under the control of the National Trust of Trinidad and Tobago, a listed Property of Interest since 2019. The National Trust has made the island a sustainable eco-development project. A solar-powered system has been installed to meet the island’s power supply needs, including lighting, security systems, data communications and electrical appliances. A solar desalination plant has also been established to supply water for the island. During the day, there are limited boat services from Port of Spain to these islands. However, the trust makes special arrangements for foreign visitors to visit the island and appreciate its history and heritage with prior online booking.
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