The sun sets on the Malaysian sky and glitzy lights come up on numerous skyscrapers in Kuala Lumpur, as Chef Ahmed Nizam sets up a dinner table at The 39 Restaurant.
It is located on the top-most floor of PNB Perdana Hotel. Platters of lavishly-decorated, aromatic dishes teamed with sparkling glasses filled with florescent mocktails are brought out.
Then, the traditional Malaysian feast beginsm with ikan merah bersama halia, an appetising soup of braised red snapper fillets in warm turmeric broth with a sharp hint of ginger.
“Soups in Malaysia are wholesome meals, rich in herbs and spices, and Malaysians prefer having them any time of the day,” says Ahmed. “Soups may have ayam (chicken) or ikan (fish) and sometimes noodles, rice and condiments are added.”
“The multi-ethnic country that Malaysia is, our cuisine is varied and eclectic, taking in elements from Indian, Chinese and indigenous Malay ways of cooking and eating,” explains Ahmed. “For instance, crisp vegetable pakoras, basically an Indian dish, are popular as snacks here.” With a wafer-like outer coat and a soft core of steamed vegetables, the pakoras are served with a garlicky dip.
There are also plenty of local dishes with typical Malay elements, such as ayam percik (roasted chicken breast covered in a thick layer of fragrant lemongrass ginger gravy). The percik sauce, a deep yellow in colour and native to the East coast, is a rich concoction of a variety of spices and coconut milk. It is a versatile paste that is neither too thick or watery, and is used in many preparations.
“Malay cuisine is heavy on spices and known for sambals, mandis and curries. Since rice and noodles are staples for the main course, there is always an array of gravies to accompany them. Coconut is a key ingredient,” shares Ahmed. “There are also sub-cuisines that differ slightly. For instance, the regions of Kelantan, Terengganu and Pahang are called the sugar states, as they prefer their curries sweeter. Curries offer a wide scope for experiments, as there is no end to the number of ingredients one can add to a curry. A good example is the rendang , which is a melange of spices such as chilli, shallots, galangal, lemongrass, ginger, garlic and turmeric mixed together.”
The chef serves a rendang -style mutton dish, with tender rectangular chunks of lamb shoulder cooked in a thin greasy gravy, tempered with spices. The myriad flavours complement each other and the succulent melt-in-the-mouth chops are eaten with rice.
“Malaysia is rich in sea food as well, and there are many ways of cooking the same fish,” says Ahmed, bringing out one of his star preparations, the ikan kerapu cili hijau — crisp, fried grouper fish, slathered with a mildly spicy green chilli paste. “Groupers are a popular choice, especially in the coastal state of Malacca, and preferred for their spongy meat with less bones. Green chillies are blended with onions or shallots and dry shrimps to make a purée, called sambal belacan. The shrimps sambal is great as a dressing on salads or even as a dip.”
The main course, interspersed with bites of young papaya infused with tamarind juice and cucumber raita , typically ends with a delicate dessert. Called sago gula melaka, this is a traditional sweet from Malacca. With a perfect circle of a jelly-like centre piece sitting prettily in a pool of palm sugar syrup, topped with sliced strawberry and grapes, the dish looks like art on a plate.
Sago , spongy white pearls made of starch extracted from the pith of palm trees, is often steamed to a gelatin-like consistency. “Flavours can be added while steaming, and the most common flavour is pandan (screwpine leaf), which also gives it a green tinge. Pandan leaves in Malay cuisine are as important as salt and sugar,” explains the chef. “Thick palm sugar syrup, made by boiling sticky palm seeds with brown sugar and coconut milk, is found in most of the Malay desserts, as it is natural and healthy.”
The feast, interspersed by plenty of recipe swapping, was a spirited attempt to combine some of the country’s most colourful flavours in one meal.
The writer was in Malaysia on invitation from Tourism Malaysia
