Chettinad food, if authentic, is a lesson in the way spices can be used in the kitchen. This cuisine, which is generally synonymous with spicy, aromatic food, in reality is a complex blend of well-balanced flavours.
“The fiery flavours come from the use of black pepper and red chilli,” says Chef V.R. Vinod Kumar of Black Pepper, The Central Residency, Thiruvananthapuram.
He goes on to say that although most of the spices used in Chettinad cuisine is similar to that used in Kerala, “the use of freshly ground spices, the level of spices used, at which point of the cooking it is used… varies. It’s all in the spices. For example, a simple curry can have about 18 spices . ”
However, the spices don’t overwhelm the dishes as I soon discover at Black Pepper’s ongoing Chettinad food festival. Each dish has its own identity. The food is served in buffet style, with nearly all the dishes, be it the salads or the desserts, from the Chettinad region.
I skip the salads and head for the soups. The soups for the day are Chettinad poondu parippu soup and Chettinad mutton kariveppila soup. I have spoonfuls of each.
The mutton soup is aromatic, luscious and tangy with the heat hitting you at the end; it reminds one of rasam. The poondu parippu, a clear soup, with the predominant flavour of garlic, failed to tickle my taste buds, however.
A waitress brings me a plate of starters – banana bhajji. Fried in a thin batter, the bhajji is crisp. A sprinkling of chaat masala on top of the piping hot bhajjis helps enhance the savoury snack.
I help myself to some idiappam. Wondering what to team it up with, I spot Chettinad kozhi curry. The flavour in the kozhi curry is spot on with hints of pepper and roasted spices and goes great with the idiappam. The Kuzhi paniyarams is a bit of a disappointment as it is not as fluffy as expected.
Dessert spread at Black Pepper
A live station serves appams, dosas [there are a variety of stuffed dosas available], omelettes and naans. Although there is a range of chammanthis as accompaniment to the dosa, I prefer having my plain dosa with some Chettinad mutton masala. The mutton masala is mildly spiced, its meat falling off the bones. The fluffy appam that is served goes well with the slightly milder Chettinad version of our Kerala meen manga curry.
Those visiting the fete should check if the Chettinad style fried fish is available as it is yum! Spicy, the moist pieces of fish have absorbed the masala well and packs a punch.
Mothakam
The dessert counter has limited choices. I stick to the Chettinad version of the doughnut – Athirasam. Soft with just the right amount of sweetness, it is a perfect way to end my meal.
The Chettinad food festival is priced at ₹599 plus taxes per person. It is on until April 8. Time: 7 pm to 11 pm.
Contact: 0471-3011000
