Hole in the wall is the best way to describe Al Kebab Company.
Located a floor below Hu Tong in Alwarpet, it occupies what was once a koi pond. Helmed by Anush Rajasekaran and Swetha Rengasamy of Mezze, Al Kebab Company is cosy with just about four tables, and a plethora of kebabs to choose from. The décor is minimalist; but then it is the kebabs that are the star attractions after all.
The weekday lunch crowd is sparse, so it is easy to get a table. First up to whet our appetites is a portion of lamb keema samosa . With mildly-spiced keema encased in flaky pastry, it is satisfying with every crunchy bite. The only catch: it is a tad oily and we find ourselves reaching for copious amounts of paper napkins to soak up the grease.
Next up is broccoli parmesan kebab: florets of broccoli grilled to perfection and slathered in a creamy white sauce, then dusted with parmesan. Accompanied by a delightful mango dip, the broccoli is a clear winner with just the right amount of char and bite to it. Now the dip: made with mango, yoghurt, cream and curry powder, this one hits right home with its balance of flavours and rich mouthfeel. We find ourselves reserving the dip for the kebabs to follow, but cannot help stealing little spoonfuls in between.
It is now time for business; we are here for meaty treats after all. We order suya kebabs, lamb shawarma , chello kebabs and chicken 65 kebabs. The chicken 65 kebab is a let-down... deep-fried chunks of chicken coated in southern spices, there is nothing distinctive about them. While the spices are bold, it could do with a bit more salt for well-rounded taste. Served with a thoum (garlic sauce) that is as light as air and as full of flavour as the mango dip that came before it, the chicken is passable.
The suya kebabs are a whole other story. Tender strips of beef marinated in a spicy African rub, peanut and chillies, it is a harmonious medley of flavours, and goes well with the garlicy mayonnaise that accompanies it.
The chello kebabs and lamb shawarma have a beautiful smoky char. While the chello kebabs are mildly spiced and juicy, the shawarma comes off tasting more like a lamb tikka with its robust spices. The mint dip served with the shawarma makes it feel more like a tikka than a Middle Eastern kebab, but we are not complaining. The kebabs can also be had as either rolls or rice bowls if you want a more rounded meal.
We finish off our meal with a portion of strawberry-and-cream loukamades . Now loukamades are honey puffs; the Greek version of donuts, served with hot honey syrup. At Al Kebab Company, though, they are more like deep-fried balls of dough, a tad chewy. I would have been happier ending my meal with kebabs and dips; specifically a second, generous portion of that mango dip.
