On the ancient route between Charminar and Falaknuma Palace is a small masjid surrounded by remnants of what used to be a serai (inn for wayfarers). Called Masjid-e-Almas, it is a blink and miss masjid as the traffic flows and swirls around it relentlessly. The road is considerably narrow in front of it. Reached by a steep flight of symmetrical stairs, the structure of the old masjid is hidden by a concrete slab that covers a large portion in front of the three arches. The keystone of the old structure has the trademark whorls of fire.
“Malik Almas built five or six masjids. We know only two, this, as well as the one near Salar Jung Museum. Usually, masjids have an inscription but despite searching at a number of places we could not find any date on this,” says Tehseen Shah Saani, whose family has been taking care of the masjid for nearly 250 years. “My great-grandfather lived to 114 years. We celebrated his 127th Urs recently. The graves that you see with flowers all belong to my ancestors. Despite such long association, we don’t know when this masjid was built,” says Tehseen.
Built on a raised platform, the masjid is now surrounded by rows of graves. It is only after stepping out of the masjid that the old glory of the structure can be glimpsed. There is a derelict room that has a pulley structure. Right beneath it are parked cars! What was perhaps a well for drawing water for wazoo (ritual ablution) is now plain ground. The missing well gives a hint of what other structures might have been lost in the area, while the architectural simplicity tells about the man who built it.
Inside the masjid
Malik Almas worked for three Qutb Shahi kings — Muhammad Quli, Muhammad Sultan and Abdullah Qutb Shah. He worked with Muhammad Quli and on his death became the steward of Muhammad Sultan and also took care of city affairs. Under Abdullah Qutb Shah he was the superintendent of buildings. It was in the last role that he excelled and left a mark in the city and the region. A tribute to him can be seen from the name of Almasguda, a bigger and grander masjid near Salar Jung Museum and other village names that reference the man. Malik Almas is also considered the man who stayed loyal and helped Abdullah Qutb Shah come to the throne. It was Malik Almas who teamed up with Muhammad Said to help build a palace for Hayat Bakshi Begum.
But why a masjid at this place away from Charminar? The Falaknuma Palace is built on a site where Muhammad Quli Qutb Shah built a three-storied pleasure palace. The hillock was known as Koh-e-Toor, named after Mt Sinai, where Moses received the 10 Commandments. Located between the royal piazza on the northern side of Charminar and the hill palace, the importance of this route can easily be imagined.
Incidentally, Malik Almas is among the few Qutb Shahi noblemen who is buried near the Paigah Tombs complex in Phisalbanda.
