Alka Raghuvanshi, the late writer, curator and artist with an infectious smile, spent a large part of her life propagating art. Delhiites know well her love for textiles and her emotional connect with jewellery. The senior journalist would always be spotted with her signature big bindi and unique jewellery.
The book cover | Photo Credit: SPECIAL ARRANGEMENT
Three years after Alka’s demise, Manisha Gawade, her sister, who is also a designer, and artist, released the last book Alka wrote, A Rendezvous with Traditional Indian Jewellery, published by Shubhi Publications.The book, launched on Alka’s 63rd birth anniversary last weekend, has a lavish sprinkle of photographs by seasoned photographer Avinash Pasricha.
“The first time I saw the Kohinoor at the Tower of London, tears trickled down my face in patriotic agony. It was our heritage that was on display and the then $10 entry fee pinched in more ways than one,” is how Alka introduces the chapter on the National Museum Jewellery Collection and underlines her innate love for jewellery.
Kundan choker representing Rajput jewellery | Photo Credit: SPECIAL ARRANGEMENT
“She played an important role as an art historian. She was India’s first trained art curator and curated several exhibitions across the world... In this book, she didn’t want to cover jewellery on a superficial level but dig deep into why a certain piece of jewellery is worn in a certain way. What are the religious and marital connotations of a piece of jewellery? She explains the socio-economic levels at which jewellery plays an important part in India,” says Manisha Gawade, who curated the book.
The book is divided into different categories: Taking a leaf out of nature, Ritual Jewellery, Jadau Jewels from Avadh, Jewels Fit for Kings, Nizam’s Jewellery, South Indian Jewellery, the National Museum Collection, Silver Accessories and Reconditioning Jewellery.
Kundan Kalgi for Rajput turban | Photo Credit: SPECIAL ARRANGEMENT
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Alka started working on the book in 2016 and by 2021, she had finished writing the text. After her death in 2021, Manisha had to bring it all together write the synopsis, introduction and the author profile, as well as matching and placing relevant pictures with the text.
Popular earring design Karnphool | Photo Credit: SPECIAL ARRANGEMENT
In the book, Alka draws attention to male ornaments like the Sarpech — a turban ornament often sported by grooms. She describes it saying, “a sarpech usually consists of two or three pieces: one is the sir-patti or forehead band, the other is the plume and the third is the jigha or central piece. Three tassels are provided to tie the sarpech to the turban and while a number of kundan sarpechs still survive, a few jadau pieces in emeralds and pearls are still in the possession of some old Rajput families.”
Manisha’s personal favourite is the section on Nizam’s jewellery, which has some fascinating nuggets of history. When the collection was offered for sale to the Government of India in 1972, it caused a stir. “For it was for the first time in the history of India that the jewellery collection of any principality was offered for sale to the Government. After nearly 23 years of protracted negotiations and prolonged drama, the jewels, assumed to be only a fraction of the original treasure, were finally acquired in 1995.”
Jadau choker from Awadh region | Photo Credit: SPECIAL ARRANGEMENT
Jacob Diamond, the fifth biggest polished diamond in the world and used by last Nizam, Mir Osman Ali Khan as a paperweight and Sarpech Kalan Zamrrud Wa Kanval Ba Awaiza-i-Zamarrud with emerald drops that alone weigh 300 carats are some of the other pieces discussed with delight by Alka in the book.
Curator Manisha Gawade | Photo Credit: SPECIAL ARRANGEMENT
