To the valley of rice: exploring Sikkim

A trekking veteran suggests two off-the-grid routes in Sikkim for your next hiking holiday

October 13, 2017 03:26 pm | Updated 07:16 pm IST

Top of High mountains, covered by snow. Kangchenjunga, India.

Top of High mountains, covered by snow. Kangchenjunga, India.

Sandwiched between Nepal and Bhutan, the tiny state of Sikkim encapsulates everything that the Himalayas have to offer. From elevations of 300 m to 8,500 m, from tropical to tundra, from thick forests to trans Himalayan cold deserts, there is a mind boggling variety on offer.

Combine it with its fully organic agriculture, hospitable locals and a variety of travel experiences from homestays and monastery visits, to wildlife sanctuaries and full fledged treks and you have the first amongst equals in the entire Eastern Himalaya. More than 90% of trekkers to Sikkim, however, choose either the Dzongri/ Goecha la or the Singalila trails. No doubt they are both beautiful trails, but here are two other treks you could plan this year:

1. Barsey rhododendron sanctuary

A wildlife sanctuary dedicated to just one species of a flower — Rhododendron. To its 600 varieties to be exact, but it’s a fascinating sanctuary and provides for some easy walks along trails carpeted with the red and pink flowers. And you might just come across the elusive, near extinction, red panda. You can set base at Sombaria, just outside the sanctuary, and either do day walks, an overnight trek or even a full-fledged four-day trek across the sanctuary. Combine this trip with a stay in the beautiful Kewzing village, and you have an easy, wonderful Sikkim holiday.

The trek: Option 1 – A day walk in the sanctuary starting from the Hilley gate till Barsey and back (4 km each way).

Option 2 – Camp overnight at Barsey, explore more the next day and return by evening.

Travel responsibly: The homestays in Kewzing are a sustainable tourism initiative by Kangchendzonga Conservancy Committee (KCC). You will get to stay with locals in their homes, participate in their daily lives, understand their concerns and struggles, and have a meaningful holiday. All the homes get to host visitors on a rotation basis.

Best time to visit: For rhododendrons in bloom, March-April; For trekking, Oct-Nov

2. Tholung and beyond – Land of the Yeti

The legend of the Yeti has confounded explorers, scientists and naturalists for many decades. Beyond the Tholung monastery in the remote North-West region of Dzongu in Sikkim, on the edge of the Kangchendzonga biosphere, lies a land where the legend of the Bon Manchi (the wild man) prevails, and the locals believe in it as much as they believe in me and you. This is the land of Lepchas, the original inhabitants of Sikkim, now consigned to a few restricted areas with land rights.

The Tholung monastery is amongst the most sacred monasteries in Sikkim, and has in store a treasure of some of the most precious Buddhist artefacts and relics which are taken out once every three years for display. The trek beyond Tholung takes you to a beautiful but completely untouched high altitude meadow surrounded by snow covered peaks from three sides, the playground of the Bon Manchi .

The trek: Option 1 – Trek from Dzongu to Tholung and back over two days. Roughly five hours each way.

Option 2 – Trek to Temrong valley, beyond Tholung. The stunning, completely unknown Temrong valley lies a further two days walk from Tholung. Total trek duration: 4-5 days.

Travel responsibly: Dzongu is an official reserve for Lepchas of Sikkim, and an initiative to preserve their indigenous culture. You get a chance to live with them and contribute to their economy by buying local produce, handicrafts and art.

Best time to trek: April or Oct- Nov

The writer is author of The Land of Flying Lamas & Other Real Travel Stories from the Indian Himalaya and runs an inclusive tourism initiative, Connect with Himalaya. He is organising a trek to Tholung and beyond from November 5 – 12. For details, mail cwh.now@gmail.com

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