Balram Menon traversed half the globe to catch a glimpse of the blue-footed booby, a rare bird with feet so blue, it had to be its very name. Though a native of the Galapagos archipelago, the bird plays hard to get. Balram, however, got lucky. April- May being the breeding season, he found many of them waddling out of the sea. “They get their name from the Spanish word ‘bobo’, which means foolish, owing to their funny gait,” he says.
Balram, a solo traveller from Kochi, is just back from his 16-day trip to the Galapagos islands and Ecuador. Around the same time, last year, he was skiing with huskies on the frozen Terelji lake in Mongolia. This time he was swimming with the Galapagos penguins and giant sea turtles in the warm waters of the Pacific—the GoPro came in handy, capturing the thrill of the moment.
Travel, for this businessman, is a search of collectible experiences. Balram had decided upon Bolivia, when a friend suggested that he travel to Ecuador, one the least explored South American countries; he also heard of the bird from him. When he saw the aquamarine feet on the internet, his heart was set on them. “Few people from India travel to Galapagos because of the distance (almost 28 hours for travel) and the expense. For those who hold a US visa, it is easier, but for those who don’t, it can be quite complicated,” he says.
He flew from Kochi to Delhi, and then to Amsterdam from where he flew to the capital of Ecuador, Quito. One of the highest altitude capital cities in the world, he was treated to a drink of coca leaves (from which cocaine is made)-infused water at the hotel. “It must be their way of helping a foreigner acclimatise.”
Sparsely inhabited
Only three islands of the Galapagos archipelago are inhabited and the traditional way to travel to these, about 1,000 miles away from Ecuador coast, would be by a cruise, which would take 14 days and cost close to 5,000 USD. Balram chose the next best option, a flight from Quito to Galapagos. “It is said that the archipelago was formed after a volcanic eruption and that Charles Darwin’s theory of evolution was inspired by these islands.”
A biodiversity rich zone with numerous protected species of plants and animals, entry to these islands is restricted. A 100 USD ticket has to be taken, which would go towards preservation of its fragile ecosystem. Tourists are also checked for possession of invasive species. Balram did not take a certified guide, exploring the place by himself rather and getting chased by a sea lion. “They are everywhere—the sea lions—lolling on the beach, in the markets, some of them even lounge around on the wayside seats. They are not at all threatened by human presence.”
It is almost like a page out of a graphic novel, with pre-historic iguanas lazing on the volcanic rock formations and huge birds flying low. Pelicans, finches, flamingoes, frigate birds, albatross and the giant tortoises were some of the other rare species he spotted.
While Galapagos was an awe-inspiring encounter with wildlife, Ecuador was a delightful experience in food and hospitality. “If you thought that Sree Muruga in Tripunithura was the only place that served beef with banana, you are wrong. Banana is served with every possible thing in Ecuador.” He tried a pork dish with sweet, steamed banana, something that brought back a flavour train of memories. “The country is one of the top banana producers in the world and it is also famous for its coffee.”
Travels are also gastronomical excursions. He tasted a roast guinea pig dish, a delicious cheese ice cream, and a traditional handmade sugarcane candy, skipping however, a swig of the potent local handmade sugarcane arrack, punta .
The adventure is not restricted to the culinary. “There is a swing, which is believed to be at the end of the world at Banos, Ecuador, and it really did feel that way.” Balram also immersed himself in the hot springs the place is famous for—a volcanic pool, the waters of which shift from luke-warm, to hot, cold and very cold. The Pailon del Diablo or the Devil’s Cauldron is another popular destination, which is an 80-metre-tall waterfall.
At the Mitad del Mundo, located exactly on the equator (centre of the earth), it is a practice to stand with one foot on the northern hemisphere and the other on the southern hemisphere. “The feeling is inexplicable. It is a philosophical moment—one, which might make you contemplate life and other big things.”
