Six road trips to explore in Karnataka

From a haunted church in Shettihalli and Tibetan settlements in Bylakuppe, to farm walks in Hulgol and hilltop temples at Mullayanagiri, these road trips pack in quite a lot

November 08, 2019 06:36 pm | Updated 06:36 pm IST

Though people from other States can claim their own share of travel exploits, Karnataka offers quite the deal — from abandoned churches and hilltop temples, to dolphins and reptile havens. With a low-down on pit stops and food on-the-go, our list of six lesser-known destinations is the only thing you need.

1. Shettihalli

Route: Bengaluru-Mangalore route, deviation to Shettihalli near Hassan

Though the quaint town is home to glorious temples, it is the Shettihalli Rosary Church, also known as the ‘floating’ church, that draws tourists here. Built in the 19th century by French missionaries, it was left to fend for itself in the 1960s after the construction of the Hemavathi Dam, which explains why it is submerged during the monsoons. “With the church in the middle of the pond, surrounded by trees, the place looks haunted,” says Deepak Ananth, co-founder of Mumbai-based community tour organiser, The Road Trips Co (roadtrippersclub.com).

We suggest leaving early to catch the sunrise at the Channarayapatna lake. Chat up local farmers who could be persuaded to take you on a coracle right to the church.

Another pit stop is the ghat section after Shettihalli, home to many unnamed lakes. But if you prefer something more laid-back, drive an hour in the other direction, to the backwaters of the Hemavathi reservoir. Check into the Rappa or Karle homestays, and visit the Shettihalli Wildlife Sanctuary (five hours away). Twenty minutes away is the Sakrebylu Elephant Camp where you can feed the jumbos.

Tip: If you’re heading to Shettihalli in the wee morning hours, “it is advisable to finish breakfast at the many roadside stalls (near the deviation),” says Vidur Pandit, a Bengaluru-based travel blogger, who runs the experiential travel company, Moto Overlanders.

2. Bylakuppe

Distance: 220 km from Bengaluru and 87 km from Mysore

A mini-Tibet in itself, the Lugsung Samdupling Tibetan Settlement is considered to be one of the largest outside their home state, after Dharamshala. The settlement’s Namdroling Monastery is the more frequented one, but you could escape to the lesser-known Sera Jay. Don’t head back without trying the momos, tingmo (steamed bread) and shapta (stir-fried meat). While the best bet for Tibetan cuisine is Potala Kitchen, Malaya Restaurant and Thirsty Crow are popular, too.

Tip: Visiting during the Tibetan New Year (Losar), can be an experience: with monks in colourful masks and costumes, dancing to traditional music.

3. Hulgol

Closest town: Sirsi (13 km)

Dubbed Karnataka’s spice garden, it is known for everything from peppercorns and cinnamon to nutmeg. The drive from the Kumta railway station is quite scenic, peppered with waterfalls such as the Vibhooti Falls. Bird watching enthusiasts are in for a treat as the region is home to over 100-odd species, including the Malabar grey hornbil, ashy dongo, and the crested serpent eagle.

A great place to stay is the community-owned guesthouse run by the village committee. This is courtesy Uttarakhand-based tour organiser, Village Ways (villageways.com). The locals double up as chefs and tour guides, so don’t miss out on the farm walk. Must try dishes are tambli (a type of raita ), appehuli (raw mango rasam ), holige (sweet flatbread), and kokum /tamarind-based drinks.

Tip: Plan your trip so as to catch the butterfly season in November and December.

4.Pavinakurva

Route: Hubli to Pavinakurva - 175 kms

Inhabited by a vibrant fishing community, there’s a lot more to Pavinakurva than its secluded beaches. “We don’t recommend people to venture into the sea, because a holiday here should be primarily be about understanding the lives and culture of the fishermen,” says Manisha Pande, co-founder, Village Ways, who organises visits to their homes.

Apart from walking through cashew farms, exploring the temple inside Basavraja Fort, atop the Basavraja Durga island, is recommended.

While there, sample the village’s mackerel dish, made with a coconut base and locally-sourced spices. For dessert, newri, a sweet roll with a sugar and coconut filling, is a must-try.

Gokarna is a mere 40 kms away where you could sign up for a guided dolphin sighting trip (₹500 per head on thrillophilia.com). Chat up locals to know more about the town’s untouched beaches. “We do not even mention them in our itinerary. No one really travels for so long to go to another beach, so it feels great when you’re the only one there,” says Shanoon Fernandes, co-founder of Mumbai-based travel company, Vagabond.

4. Mullayanagiri

Distance: 267 km from Bengaluru

If you’re visiting Chikmagalur, drive another 20 km and explore the region’s hilltop temples. Right atop Karnataka’s highest peak, Mullayanagiri, is a Shiva temple that makes for modest shelter on desolate nights. “If you can’t find accommodation, temples are a good place to stay in the wild,” says Sanjna Hangal, co-founder of Bengaluru-based caravan travel company, Trippy Wheels (trippywheels.com). The neighbouring Baba Budangiri houses a cave shrine, which is of pilgrimage importance to both Hindus and Muslims.

Tip: Get locals to talk about the medicinal plants and herbs of the region. Drop by the Coffee Museum to see the various stages of coffee production and to taste some fresh brew.

6. Agumbe

Route (approx.): Bengaluru via Tiptur - 360 kms, via Hiriyur - 410 kms, via Chikmagalur - 350 kms

If leeches, rainforests and snakes are your spirit animals, this is possibly where you should head to next. Dubbed as South India’s Cherrapunji, Agumbe has traditionally been a biker’s den, owing to its very curvy but smooth roads.

Though the place offers the best of Karnataka’s cuisine, the mangoes from around here are quite the catch. Agumbe has a couple of Udipi eateries scattered about at best, with hardly any options to camp at. Resorts and homestays in core Agumbe are unheard of except the lone, Hotel Mallya Residency in the middle of the town. Another great option for history buffs is the famous Doddamane complex — Malgudi Days anyone?

The Doddamane Complex

The Doddamane Complex

A must-visit is the Agumbe Rainforest Research Station. Sign up for their in-house workshops on ecology and field botany, or volunteer for their ongoing project on the region’s most celebrated inhabitant, the king cobra.

Tip: While driving down from the neighbouring town of Thirthahalli, drive up Kundadri Hill, home to a 17th Century Jain temple. If you choose to drive towards Udipi from here, get ready for slightly waterlogged roads. If you’re in a safer zone with guided visits, you could look up tours, scheduled for the next two months, by Muddie Trails and Monks on Wheels, as well as the macro-photography tour by Pixellin.

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