In her book, Unfolding: Contemporary Indian Textiles , author and artist Maggie Baxter has referred to Raj Shroff as a “maximalist”. One look at the collection sold under the brand Ravage, and you will understand why: sweeping silhouettes, embellished fabric and dramatic motifs characterise most of his work.
Here in the city to launch his Spring-Summer collection 2017 at Collage, Greams Road, the Bengaluru-based designer waxes eloquent about his design sensibility, his latest collection and inspirations.
Ravage’s collection of dresses, jackets, and trousers manages to merge both modernity and tradition. “My designs this season are different. I have used the ancient ajrakh technique with a modern twist,” says the couturier, himself dressed in a loose, deep-blue ajrakh printed shirt.
The current collection also includes a trousseau line which comprises outfits with flirty, flouncy silhouettes and a hint of edginess. In blues, reds, oranges and maroons, the outfits are versatile, says the designer, “They can be styled differently according to the situation.”
Sophisticated and fun
His clothes are heavily detailed. For instance, he often uses textiles-on-textiles to give the outfits that extra oomph. “I pay maximum attention to small details. I use small pieces of brocade as embroidery on the border of an outfit,” he says, pointing out the finer details of his cuts, that he says are both flattering and comfortable. “I have a range of new pants, which are breezy, stylish and give the illusion of a skirt. The market lacks the comfort and trend factor together.” His own collection, clearly doesn’t — for instance, peplums with cutwork showing through, a perfect mix of sophistication and fun. “For me, my clients add life to the clothes. I want my collection to be appealing to more women, so I don’t follow a single type of print or design,” says Shroff, who is already working on a series of Deepavali outfits. “It will be a class apart,” he grins.
On fashion trends he says, “Upcoming trends are going to be more organic and simple, where comfort is as important as vanity,” adding that people are beginning to appreciate indigenous fabrics. The current season calls for fabrics that slide through the skin, believes Shroff. According to him, while North Indian women prefer festive and heavily-embellished outfits, “women here prefer casuals in pastel colours, which can be worn to work as well as to an evening party.”
He confesses that he loves styling his clients. For instance, a dress can be converted into a stylish kurta and paired with calf-length culottes to look especially chic.
When asked about his inspiration, he says, “My only driving forces are my travels and adventures. My last venture to Puerto Banus in Spain gave my creativity a boost,” says the well-travelled designer. “Europeans, especially the French and the Germans, are very minimalist in their choice, unlike India. They really like textile details in their clothes: for instance they prefer a jersey made of pashmina instead of an embroidered shirt, and will make their trousers and skirts an element of focus.”
