By the time he was six, jewellery designer Pavan Anand was already obsessed with diamonds. “I was a greedy child,” says the Mumbai-based designer. It helped that his maternal grandmother was a connoisseur of jewellery. “I saw people in my family put effort and passion into jewellery even when it wasn’t their business,” says Pavan, who has recently launched a new collection titled Abduction.
Abduction is composed of baroque, audacious, statement pieces of jewellery that seek to “abduct a client or patron of the arts into our world,” says Pavan. “The collection is fairly unorthodox. It is not something you expect from an Indian jeweller,” he says.
The collection appears to have multiple inspirations, including Toussaint Louverture, a pivotal part of the Haitian Revolution, the Egyptian god of the sun, Amun Ra and William Shakespeare’s Portia from The Merchant of Venice. “Abduction is all about telling a story that matters, and hopefully people will grasp from it what they can,” he says.
One thing that appears to be a constant, however, is the dragon motif that is used repeatedly. “The dragon is one of those powerful, mythical creatures whose energy is always protective of the good,” he says of his assortment of dragon-shaped earrings, rings and brooches, sculpted out of fine gold and speckled with colossal gemstones, like Burmese rubies, diamonds and emeralds “For me, it was about placing power where power belongs.”
After all, jewellery has historically always been about power, “whether it was wealth or status or assertion of authority,” he says. And yes, in the ancient world, jewellery was worn to ward off evil and even as a tool for seduction. “Look at how the Egyptian queens like Nefertiti or Cleopatra were known for their jewels,” says Pavan, who believes that his designs are best suited for, what he refers to as “the alpha woman”. He says, “It is for someone who is in a position of power and authority, for whom looking assertive is important.”
A brooch from the collection | Photo Credit: Special Arrangement
Jewellery for the red carpet
Pavan’s foray into jewellery began on a whim, soon after he graduated with a degree in architecture. “I am lucky,” he says, adding that his educational background in architecture had a significant impact on the design narrative of his jewellery. “Architecture teaches you about form, structure, aesthetics...”
He started off by designing a small collection of “avant-garde pieces”, under his pret luxury brand called Dagmar Jewellery, combining traditional Indian jadau with different types of leather. The collection sold fast, and he launched Pavan Anand Fine Jewels in 2008, focussing on very high-end fine jewellery.
Pavan’s tryst with Hollywood began a year or so after, in 2009 or 10 when he showcased his collection at the New York Fashion Week. Over the last decade or so, his pieces have been worn by the who’s-who of Hollywood, including Goldie Hawn, Edward Norton, Nicole Kidman, Megan Fox and Kate Hudson. He has also created jewellery for the royal families of both Morocco and Monaco, produced a capsule collection alongside Jyotsna Singh, the Maharaja of Patiala’s granddaughter, and collaborated with international brands, including Versace and Nankai.
“We have done things for important, epic moments,” says Pavan, who, by 2011, transitioned into making aspirational jewellery, which can be bought only on appointment. He defends his decision by saying, “It isn’t arrogance, but clarity of vision. We sell our jewels like art,” then describes these as “red carpet pieces… worn for that one night, that one important moment.”
An earring from Abduction | Photo Credit: Special Arrangement
Given that he has designed for so many iconic personalities and occasions, what has been his most memorable moment? “I got a query from a prominent Hollywood director who wanted my brand to make a ring with a certain sapphire, one of the rarest on the planet,” he says. It took Pavan about four months to find the stone, make the ring and send it to him. He says he then met the same director and his wife at a party in LA six months later. “I assumed the director had made the piece for his wife, so I told her that I hoped she had liked the ring,” he says, recalling how baffled the lady had looked. “Obviously, it was not for his wife. That was a close call,” he says, with a laugh. “I will never forget that.”
Prices start at Rs 17 lakh and go up to 2.7 crore. To make an appointment mail teampavananand@gmail.com
