Sharada Stores, West Mambalam | Photo Credit: Johan Satyadas
We may never forget the early lockdown days of 2020 when supermarket shelves were empty and larders were bare. As people regrouped, our neighbourhood shops and home chefs rose to the occasion, making and, often home-delivering murukkus, ribbon pakoda and birthday cakes.
During the pandemic, they reached out to a larger community, thus developing a new customer base. This year, as the city swings back into familiar festive routines and loyalists return to them, the neighbourhood sweet makers are busier than ever.
Cococut burfi at Sharada Stores | Photo Credit: Johan Satyadas
Despite grappling with rising costs, they strive to keep their products affordable, staying true to the recipes that made them famous. In West Mambalam, for instance, Sharadha Stores has drawn generations of customers with its homestyle coconut burfi and signature mysore pak, rich with khoa.
“Since 1974, we have been operating out of this location and catering to residents,” says RT Balaji of Sharadha Stores. He adds, “Even those who have relocated to other parts of the city make monthly visits to us or we send their orders via courier.”
Balaji says that they have been making Deepavali sweets for 30 years. The store was launched by his father, R Thiayagarajan and his brothers, to sell butter, ghee, appalam, vadams and puja paraphernalia. Then, pickles, podis, sweets and snacks were added. Last year, they created a small enclosure within the store, to sell a larger variety of their traditional sweets and savouries, including the popular porivilangai, a multi-grain rice flour laddu they are known for making.
Deepavali Bakshanam | Photo Credit: Johan Satyadas
Stating that their customers enjoy their “home-style preparations,” he says everything is made at their kitchen in West Mambalam. “Over here, publicity is purely by word of mouth, so maintaining quality is important for us,” says Balaji, adding that they recently opened a branch in Alwarthirunagar.
“During the festival season, I hire more people for packing and door delivery. Some of our customers send our bakshanams to their relatives overseas and also to other cities in India. Especially in Bengaluru and Mumbai, we have a large customer base,“ he adds.
Cashew and pista sweet, Sri Kasturi Sweets, Saidapet | Photo Credit: Johan Satyadas
Mylapore’s iconic Mami Tiffin Stall, which opened in 1968, is abuzz with activity as they set up a temporary Deepavali sales counter within their 50-seater restaurant. The proprietor, Balasubramaniam G, is hopeful of orders pouring in from across the city this year. “We are back to offering bakshanams after a gap of two years, and already my phone is ringing non-stop with enquiries. Two masters and their assistants are permanent staff here, and they will begin their work one week ahead of Deepavali so that the sweets will be fresh.”
Home cooks unite
He says that apart from the classics, like laddoo, adhirasam and badhusha, he has introduced a date mysore pak this year where minced dates are added to the gram flour, sugar and ghee mixture, to get a chewy and smooth finish.
Stating that they just launched their first branch at Eldams Road, Balasubramaniam says that he is not hoping for any corporate bulk orders but is instead happy to cater to his regulars and walk-in customers offering quality at pocket-friendly rates.
Maintaining a consistency in quality is a matter of pride for these proprietors. “Businesses like ours will not survive if we fail to provide quality,“ says Balesh Gupta of Sri Kasturi Sweets in Saidapet, adding, “This is why this sweet shop, started by my father in 1979, is doing roaring business even today.”
Jangri is ready for sale at Mami Tiffin Stall, Mylapore | Photo Credit: Johan Satyadas
Stating that their strategic location on the busy Bazaar Road gives them good visibility, Balesh adds, “During the 70s and 80s, there was a mofussil bus terminus on one side and the railway station close by. Therefore the floating population from across the city became our customers.” Their secret to success? “We always interact with customers, find out where they are from and casually we also get product feedback, and that is valuable for us.”
Famous for their jangri, the shop stocks mostly traditional South Indian sweets like jalebis, mysore pak and various types of laddus. The 25 staff at the central kitchen in Saidapet process, prepare, and pack all products and transport them to the shop. "I was hardly 15 when I began to assist my father, and I always observed that he never compromised on quality, and that helped us thrive," says Balesh, who launched a new branch at Madipakkam recently.
The best sellers here are jangri (customers can choose between two versions, one fried in oil and the other in ghee), boondi laddoo, butter murukku, and mixture. Says Balesh, "We are a neighbourhood store and without the support of the community, we could not survive for over four decades."
The wedding caterer mela
Sastha Catering Services live counter at Narayaniammal Kalyana Mandapam, Mylapore | Photo Credit: Johan Satyadas
Popular wedding caterer RK Venkatesan, of Sastha Catering Services, Porur, known for their sabha canteens, has set up his maiden Deepavali Sweets Mela at Narayani Ammal Kalyana Mandapam, Mylapore.
“The pandemic hit my wedding catering business, and this live counter is an opportunity to find new customers,” says Venkatesan, who began preparations a month ago. “We have a full-fledged canteen ambience, serving coffee, tiffin, snacks, and variety rice from 7am to 9.30pm.”
Customers are handed a menu, so they can pick their list of sweets and savouries. Then, as it is being packed, they can enjoy a light meal. There is also a thoughtful courier desk to send sweets across India and overseas. Gulkand kasi halwa, asoka halwa (moong dal halwa), mini adhirasam, and crisp jangri are some of Sastha’s specialities. When you visit, watch them making boondhi laddoo and kai murukku at the live counter till October 23. For pre-orders, call 9840144561
