Max, the Beagle is the first thing you see. He is comfortable on a sofa, his puppy eyes staring straight at you, almost challenging you to eat without giving him something first. Sadly, Max, as lifelike as he looks, isn’t real. He could well be the mascot of Bandra’s newest restaurant, which like him is small, cute, and delightful.
La Loca Maria (LLM) opened its doors earlier this month, a launch that went unnoticed in a city reeling in the after-effects of a rainy weekend. Yet, it is crowded on a week day. People were dropping in all afternoon, for quick tapas or to greet the owners, chef Manuel Olveira Seller and his wife Pratima (Mickee) Tuljapurkar.
Homespun enterprise
LLM is a family venture; the couple has invested in it and is putting in the long hours and hard work. The Maria being honoured here is Manuel’s mother. Bold, unconventional and independent, she was the first woman in their hometown (Toledo) to start a restaurant. The restaurant seats 24, inside and in a covered space outside. The indoor area leads into a big kitchen to accommodate Manuel’s “big plates of food”. The kitchen is on display, not completely open but enough to see the chef at work. The two interior walls have hand-drawn illustration by Za Works. On one side, Maria sits with her legs uncrossed, sipping sangria with a burger nearby; Max stares longing in the corner. On the other wall, a bikini-clad Maria is lounging in a pond with a cougar for company. In these paintings, Maria is a pretty woman, with big curly hair and sporting a red rose. “The woman here is a combination of his mother and me,” says Mickee. She leans forward and in an elaborate whisper says, “They say every man marries his mother. Is that true? But then again, his mom and I are quite similar.” Max is the couple’s dog.
Global influences
The interiors are Mickee’s handiwork. The Bandra girl would often hang-out at Birdy’s. She thinks it fate that has led her to starting out her own venture in the same spot, a year later. “I do the cooking, she does everything else,” says Manuel. The chef is not new to Mumbai – he was previously the Chef de Cuisine at JW Mariott’s Arola. His work has taken him to Spain, Dubai and Abu Dhabi. “I didn’t want to do just Spanish food because I have learned and cooked so much more,” he says. “This menu is inspired by my Spanish heritage but it has influences from all over the world.”
Manuel’s magic
LLM has a simple, one-page menu with tapas (hot and cold), burgers, salads, mains and desserts. Their alcohol license isn’t in yet so drinks available are just coffee and coolers. Our Spicy Watermelon (₹200) keeps us well hydrated through the meal, cold and with a pleasant kick from jalapeño. We start with cold tapas, a plate of BFF Carpaccio (₹450), which are tender slivers of buffalo meat with dots of spicy aioli. There’s truffle oil for depth and richness and parmesan for a salty touch.
Beetroot Hummus Dip (₹200) is velvety smooth but lacks the root vegetable’s earthy feel. Another favourite, Mushroom and Truffle Croquettes (₹350) has a stodgy mess for stuffing and needs more of the promised truffle. Charred Octopus (₹480) makes for a pretty plate and is delightfully delicate and crunchy. Skip the accompanying potatoes that are fried a little too much.
It is in the main course where Manuel’s magic shines bright. We’ve heard good things about the burger but leave it aside for another rainy day, focusing on more comforting dishes. Braised Buff (₹650) delivers on every promise. Buffalo cheeks slow cooked till they fall apart at the touch, come coated in a rich glaze, smoky and meaty. There’s piquant pineapple chutney and goat cheese cappelletti (pasta shaped like little hats) for added flavour and to mellow down the richness of the meat. By the side, the Lobster Ravioli (₹850) proves a worthy successor. The bisque is warm, aromatic, delicately flavoured. It is a spoonful of buttery warmth perfect for a rainy day. The ravioli are stuffed with lobster, cooked just right and fresh enough to taste the saltiness of the sea. Manuel, we are told, likes shopping local and aims to highlight the richness of the city’s produce. Both dishes are good examples of the benefits of cooking local.
Welcome addition
LLM makes everything in-house: the pasta, the sauces, the dips, the breads, and the ice cream. Dessert is La Loca Tiramisu (₹400) – cream, cake and meringue sit together on chocolate soil and coffee ice cream. It is light, airy and dissolves in the mouth leaving behind a hint of sweetness and the aroma of coffee. LLM is a competent addition to Bandra’s overcrowded dining space.
The price point is on the higher side but the portions are generous and above all, they are hearty and delicious. Manuel and Mickee are charming hosts. Max would dare you to disagree.
La Loca Maria, Carlton Court, Corner of Turner Road signal, Bandra (West); 12 p.m. to 3.30 p.m. and 7 p.m. to 12 a.m.; 9769841468
