It’s become amply clear over the last few years that North India is done with the tired old routine of idli-dosa-vada. They have been hungry (excuse the pun) to discover more from the country’s south. If Bagundi in Connaught Place and Tenali in Green Park market, with their signature Andhra food, have given Delhiites a place for the cuisine other than the classic Andhra Bhavan Canteen, Savya Rasa, now in Gurugram after opening in Pune and Chennai, will be joining the likes of Juggernaut, Sana Di Ge, and Carnatic Cafe, in expanding into a more “pan-South” space. They serve Chettinad, Mangalorean, and Andhra food.
The Vetrallai Poondu Sadam, delicately fragrant curry leaf and garlic rice
The vibe : The interiors include old copper utensils and crockery, polished to a shine; the music is lilting Carnatic classical. The staff wears veshti/mundu/panchi. Despite all this, it is not formal, as much as it is quaint.
Do try: The Nannari sharbat, which is a great throwback to South Indian summers, when a concentrate of khus is stirred into chilled water. The Konda Kadalai Kozhakatai (steamed rice flour dumplings, tossed with chickpeas) is a great starter snack, of the chakhna variety — the little balls of doughy rice add a comforting smoothness. The Manga Curry (raw mango cubes in coconut gravy) was a great example of two seemingly contrasting flavours coming together in perfect harmony, with both occupying pride of place, and giving solid character to the dish. The Gongura Maamsam, a mutton curry made with the Andhra-famous sour sorrell leaves, was a hug-in-a-dish, with the meat soft and the tangy curry of the right blend for both rice (the regular accompaniment) or a parotta. The plain rice comes with a little ghee stirred in and smells heavenly, and the bun parotta is flaky on top and soft when torn, ready to soak up any curry you want to lick your plate clean of.
Skip: The Pallipalayam Kalaan (button mushrooms, pan-fried in a ground masala) which the menu says is a dish found at the banks of the Kaveri — the masala was too harsh, and the mushrooms insignificant. The Kozhi Paniyaram (finely chopped chicken stuffed into the paniyaram, a shallow fried dumpling made of rice-lentil batter) barely had any kozhi (chicken), and the batter carried a slight tang from the fermentation, which sometimes can be a good thing, but even a degree more, and it would mean that the dough is spoilt.
Go with: An empty stomach, a warrior attitude, and stretchy waistbands. Best for a family lunch, a grown-up date, or with your colleagues.
Space bar: 54 covers over 1,800 sq feet, child-friendly, but not pet-friendly
How much? ₹1,700 for two
Reach: Drive or cab it to Ardee City Road, Block B, Ardee City, Sector 52, Gurugram
