Buses rumble and hiss down Fergusson College Road in Pune. Cars zoom past and students amble on the footpaths, while some spill on to the road. On the busy path that diverges from the canopied lanes of Apte Road, stands an eatery that is more than half a century old, 65 years to be precise.
People can be seen milling around — some catching up with old buddies, others discussing college projects. As I get closer to the restaurant, the aroma of the asafoetida-infused sambar assails my senses and instantly feel my stomach rumble.
The overcrowded entrance is a common sight here, with patrons swarming the place like bees to honey. Although I know it will be a half-an-hour wait before I park myself at a table, I am ready to patiently endure the wait.
Having eaten here numerous times, I know exactly what I want, but the minute I settle down to order, the waiter stations himself near my table, with a steel tray in hand and a minuscule pencil to scribble down my order, I soon realise I am spoilt for choice. Would it be their legendary Mysore masala dosa slathered with red chutney or the pillowy soft rava idlis ? Or maybe their crispy golden vadas bathed generously in amber-red sambar, with a side of freshly ground coconut chutney. It’s a tough choice.
Down memory lane
Given the popularity of the restaurant, it is hard to imagine that the present-day Vaishali was originally Madras Health Home, that was established by Jagannath B Shetty in the early 1950s. Shetty was born in a small village, Bailur near Karkala in Karnataka. He left home at an early age, in search of greener pastures. He joined his uncle’s restaurant in Kalyan for a salary of ₹3 a month. “Vaishali in those days was a tiny restaurant. I worked hard — almost 19 hours a day, for 20 years, to make Vaishali what it is today,” recalls Jagannath.
On the menu
When the restaurant first launched, it had only a few items on the menu — idli , medhu vada , batata vada , sada dosa , coffee, tea and sandwiches.
However, as the place grew, it expanded its menu as well. Says Nikita Shetty, Jagannath’s daughter, “When the restaurant grew, we added a garden area for kids and a terrace for families. The menu now has options such as Mysore masala dosa , pizza, sev puridahi puri (SPDP), uttapam , burgers, bhel puri , omelette, ice creams, dahi vada , sabudana vada , juices and milkshakes.”
“The best-selling items include idli, vada , Mysore masala dosa and the cutlet with filter coffee,” she adds. Though the menu is inspired by Jagannath’s experiments with food, he has modified some of his recipes to suit the local palate — for instance, the slightly sweet sambar and the introduction of SPDP.
Time-tested
Today, Vaishali is a staple in most households; whether it is the old ‘uncles and aunties’ who stop over for breakfast after their morning walk, or the ladies who host kitty parties over a generous meal.
For Vrajesh Mukundlal Gandhi, Vaishali has been a favourite breakfast haunt for four years. Every day after his morning walk to the nearby Hanuman tekdi or the Vetal tekdi, he has stopped for a cup of filter coffee. “There are several people like me, who have been frequenting this place. Some have been coming here every day for the last 20 to 25 years,” he says.
Maanas Shah, an IT professional and a food blogger, says, “As a family, we tend to eat out every Sunday. I have been visiting this restaurant since my childhood. I love its friendly service and amazing food. Medhu vada sambar , onion uttapam and SPDP are my favourites here.”
Siddharth Pethe reminisces, “What attracts me is the consistency in taste and quality. I remember relishing a breakfast of idli sambar and chutney, where mom used to dunk the idlis in sambar and feed me, when I was a little boy.”
He adds, “The taste is still the same even now, with the same aromatic sambar and the soft idlis served with flavourful chutney.”
Loyal following
That’s not all. Vaishali is a favourite stop for students from the nearby Fergusson College and Apte Prashala, mainly because the prices have continued to remain affordable over the years.
It’s not only the customers who are loyal; the staff has stayed with them for years. “One of our oldest managers, Yashwant Nayak, has been working with us for the last 40 years. Most of the other waiters have been with us for more than 10 years,” says Nikita.
In this weekly column, we take a peek at the histories of some of the country’s most iconic restaurants
