Primer on Peruvian cuisine

Hot on the global foodie’s must eat list is indigenous and fusion dishes from Peru, and the Taj Group’s pop-up might just be the place to start

May 17, 2017 08:53 pm | Updated 09:34 pm IST

If you’ve been keeping up with the goings-on at the Taj Hotel’s Mumbai properties, the past year has seen a change in the group’s positioning. For starters, the revamped Shamiana, now brighter, easier on the pocket and back in its original location – the hotel lobby – was a harbinger of things to come.

Since then, the Taj has decided to do away with its Vivanta by Taj and Gateway properties, and will soon be rebranding all their hotels under one brand—Taj. Just last week, it opened House of Nomad, a gastropub at the Taj Land’s End, which does away the concept of a stuffy hotel bar, and is instead a warm and inviting cocktail spot, that happens to serve up some interesting food as well.

More recently it hosted a three-night pop-up dinner at the Chambers, which had two of groups Michelin starred chefs from London and San Francisco serve up a multi-course meal. Now, in collaboration with Dino Morea’s Playground, there’s a second pop-up on the cards, this time with Peruvian fine dine COYA.

Fine dine ventures

Taljinder Singh, the General Manager of the Taj Mahal Palace and Tower, and Area Director explains the genesis of the COYA pop-up, “The idea has been in the works for a few months, and of course, we felt that India is ready for exposure to some of the world’s best cuisines, which hitherto don’t have a presence here.” Peruvian food, which is having something of a moment on the world stage is not well represented in the city, and the Taj is hosting two lunches (priced at ₹10,000 plus taxes), and two dinners (priced at ₹12,000 plus taxes) at the Chambers. To cap it all, on May 19, there’s a 250-person dinner and after-party at the Crystal Room, which will feature live music, dinner and a version of the brand’s Pisco Lounge (COYA has two restaurants in London, as well as one each in Dubai, Abu Dhabi and Miami).

Global flavours: The Coya pop-up is a great introduction to Peru’s cuisine . special arrangement

Global flavours: The Coya pop-up is a great introduction to Peru’s cuisine . special arrangement

 

Singh elaborates, “The grand evening on the 19th [May], of course, is slated to be a very energetic experience, whereas the one in the Chambers Dining Room will be more focused on dining and cuisine. The one in the Crystal [Room] will be a bit more energetic, younger, [with] music and with a focus on the drinks and the cocktails, as well as the cuisine.” In the kitchen for the pop-up will be a team of eight chefs from COYA Dubai, including its Peruvian Executive Chef, Benjamin Wan. Singh says, “The whole crew is going to be here, to make sure that it’s an authentic experience.”

Striving for authenticity

On the menu, you’ll find dishes like ceviche and patatas bravas, but also in a nod to Peru’s Japanese influence, make roll di aguacate, with shiitake, aji limo, avocado, quinoa and black sesame. Traditional ingredients will also be showcased, like aji panca (sometimes known as a bonnet pepper), kiwicha (foxtail amaranth) and of course quinoa. As a primer for what Peruvian food, and in its global bonafides, the meal is a great introduction to a cuisine that seems set to gain popularity in India, as the year progresses.

 

When it comes to food, Singh is clear that, “this [pop-up] is something that is being done in utmost seriousness to bring authentic cuisine and authentic experiences [to the diner].” Though he’s tight-lipped about future plans, Singh doesn’t seem to rule out future pop-ups, as he sees how food has captured the imagination of Indians. In a need to be authentic to the cuisine, “all ingredients are being flown in,” with fish (that is fresh, not frozen) coming from Japan, and vegetables from Holland and Thailand to ensure that the produce matches the skill of the chefs.

COYA pop-up at Taj Mahal Palace and Tower on May 18 and 19. Lunch is priced at ₹10,000 plus taxes while dinner is ₹12,000 plus taxes. To make a reservation call 66653404 or email mumbaicelebrations@tajhotels.com

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