Once upon a time, we walked through the brightly lit interiors of Bastian in search of a drunken clam and its boozy offerings. The clam has long since died and in its place is One Street, the rebirth of what used to be One Street Over.
One Street (or 1Street going by the brightly lit sign outside) wants to market itself as something new. Luckily, some old things remain: the chef – the charming and very talented Boo Kim; the food – still delicious and still served in small plates, funky drinks, and a happening vibe. On a weekday night, we traverse the same route via Bastian and enter the small space on top. One Street is already buzzing with loud chatter and louder music. There’s a bar at one end, a DJ and screen showing cricket matches sharing space at the other. Dark wood, open filament bulbs, leather seating and wallpaper with green vines complete the look. One Street is definitely brighter and cheerier than its predecessor.
Tipple and nibble
The drinks menu is a long read, with cocktails for each poison. Gin being our current favourite, we order The Carlton (₹900) and Stranger Things (₹600). The former has sparkling wine, lime and triple sec coupled with mango, making for an extremely sour and fizzy drink. It’s too sour for us and reminds us of overripe mangoes. Stranger Things is a hit, much like the TV show it shares a name with: the spice-infused falernum mellowing the tanginess of pineapple and lemon.
In the classics section menu, a few vegetarian dishes catch our eye. The Burrata (₹650) is accompanied with a carrot halwa-like sauce and a minty pesto made from the carrot tops; served with buttered sourdough. It’s a fresh dish, the creamy soft burrata imbibing the flavours of the pesto with whole roasted carrots providing texture. Baked Thecha Tofu (₹600) is one of those experiments where Kim is playing with Indian ingredients. It has plantain mash, roasted mushroom, plantain chips, lemongrass, coconut and the spicy condiment. It isn’t visually appealing and there’s too much going on, with no one flavour standing out.
There’s much in the menu for those who enjoy heat in their food. Chili Mac (₹650) is a dish that could easily become our new comfort food (a toned down version though). It’s creamy and packed with the smokiness from a smoked chicken chili. Sesame shines in the Chili Dumplings (₹450), tiny morsels of prawn and chicken encased in a translucent coating nestled in a jus of red wine vinegar and chili oil. Our only complaint: we wished the dumplings were slightly bigger.
The menu has a wings and a burger section. Ranch (₹450) is too spicy with cayenne and paprika overpowering the mild crème fraiche and Smokey the Bear (₹450) has the typical barbeque flavour we associate with wings. Again, sesame is the winner here. The Korean Wings (₹450) are warm, sticky and crunchy, with sweet soy and chilli for balance. Fried Chicken and Waffle (₹600) is a classic combination that’s treated well. The waffles ooze with honey maple syrup and truffle oil; the chicken is crumbed and fried well while roasted whole garlic adds in a wonderful sweetness and warmth.
Fruity delights
Mangoes being the flavour of the season and though the cocktail disappointed, we have high hopes for dessert. The Mango Sticky Rice (₹700) delivers. It’s a play of textures with sticky rice mixed with coconut and just the faint hint of ginger, puffed rice and nut muesli for crunch, a sticky mango miso caramel base, bits of ripe mango for freshness, and a smooth coconut brûlée. The Organic Passion Fruit Honey Toast (₹650) has the fruit served fresh and in a sweet curd. A big loaf of bread is topped with whipped cream, milk crumbs, lime zest and hidden inside, vanilla ice cream. It’s very refreshing and the fruit cuts through all that sugar.
One Street’s food speaks for itself with Boo Kim in the kitchen. Go on a weekday for a relaxed delicious meal, and the weekend if you want lounge vibes.
One Street, B/2, New Kamal Building, Linking Road, Bandra West; Tel: 81086 69680; Tuesday - Sunday, 7 p.m. to 1.30 a.m.
