When Delhi was at its foggiest best, I was in Kolkata, soaking in its sun and food. One breezy day, my Kolkata friends suggested that we visit a restaurant called Saz. The choice was between the American-continental fare there, and a Bengali meal at Bhaja Hari Manna. I voted for the former (though I must say I quite like the latter, too).
Saz is in Fort Knox, a small mall that earlier sold gold on Camac Street. The restaurant is on the top floor, and you get a panoramic view of the city from the windows that line the expansive hall. It is quite a popular place — going by the large groups of youngsters coming and going — and the loud music that played while we were there.
The menu is the kind that makes you want to start nibbling on your napkin. It included appetisers (pan-seared scallops, duck and pomegranate salad), sandwiches (smoked salmon, steak sandwich, chicken and avocado), pizzas (quattro formaggio, Goan chorizo), burgers (beetroot and goat cheese, tenderloin) and grills and mains (summer green vegetables on truffle mash, jambalaya, pan-seared Norwegian salmon, pork ribs et al).
I asked for my favourite: a Tenderloin Steak (₹1100). The others asked for the Classic Fish and Chips (₹ 650), Bangers on Mash (₹ 675), Spaghetti Aglio Olio (₹ 550), Thin Crust Pizza with Spinach and Artichokes (₹ 500), and Churros and Chocolate Dip (₹ 350).
Food for leisure (left) Tenderloin Steak, Fish and Chips
My steak came with grilled bokchoy, beetroot and black pepper mash. I had asked for a rare-medium steak, but by the time it came to the table, it was well done. I enjoyed it, but would certainly have liked it rare.
My friend’s pork bangers with mash — with pan jus, mustard onion relish and baby greens — were delicious (I had a quick bite). The other friend didn't enjoy her fried fish with hand-cut fries and tartar sauce. She said the coating was crisp, but the fish was bland and the fries smelt of oil.
Two others shared the pizza, which was topped with caramelized onions, goat cheese and a balsamic glaze. They found it delicious, and gobbled it up before I could go anywhere there. The spaghetti aglio olio looked unfortunately like Chinese noodles. The pasta, I am told was dry, and a little too hot for our friend.
But what took the cake — or the pudding — were the churros, which were fresh, so they were soft and warm. There was a rich, creamy chocolate sauce, with a cinnamon dust and almond flakes, to go with it. Simply divine. We dipped our churros into the sauce, looked at the city below us and the young men and women around us, and called it a day.
What’s really nice about Saz is how it welcomes its diners. The very friendly — and helpful — servers guided us through the menu, and took care of each of our demands (which included shutting windows, and lowering the volume of the music).
I think the prices are rather steep for Kolkata, and I worried that the friend who had taken us out might have had to pawn her jewellery. But it was a nice day: sunny and cheerful, and the food, overall, wasn’t bad. I thought of cold, foggy and steak-less Delhi, and everything seemed even nicer. Time I planned another trip to Kolkata.
The writer is a seasoned food critic
