As dusk falls, the lights at Jagadamba Junction, one of the busiest centres of Visakhapatnam, turn brighter. Distant sound of prayers from the mosques and masjids fill the air and so does the familiar aroma of haleem . With the beginning of the holy month of Ramzan, several kisoks selling haleem have sprung up in the small lanes of this old part of the city, drawing hordes of people to it. Once considered a Hyderabadi delicacy, the lip-smacking haleem has become hugely popular among Vizagites. Transcending the frontiers of religious faith, this high-calorie dish is relished by everyone. And cashing in on the craze, several entrepreneurs, caterers, hotels and restaurants are serving this delight that’s made on makeshift brick kilns.
Traditional stalls
Among the firsts to set up a stall is Sheikh Zuber who runs Dil Se Hyderabadi Haleem, near the Macca Masjid in Jagadamba Junction. Over the past six years from the time he set up his stall, the popularity of haleem has only grown, he says. “Last year was the best. On an everyday basis, we had to use 100 kgs of chicken and 25 kgs of mutton,” says Zuber. Haleem master Rasool Shah has come from Hyderabad to lend his special touch to the dish. It even draws people from neighbouring districts of Rayagada and Rajahmundry. “The taste is different from most other haleem stalls. It is deliciously spicy and makes for a great evening snack,” says S. Viswa Bharath, an engineering student who is a regular at Zuber’s stall. In chicken and mutton variants, they are served from 4 pm onwards and sell out by 7 pm almost every day. This time his menu also includes paya roti and kaddu ka kheer.
Oldest in town
Adjacent to the Macca Masjid gate is the tiny kiosk of Nawabi Haleem, the oldest in the city. When the stall started more than a decade ago, there was hardly anybody else serving haleem in the city. “Back then iftar was restricted to being a household affair in Muslim families. We saw how the city’s love for haleem grew in the next couple of years and now there are stalls at almost all the major streets of the city,” says Mohd Ali Shah who runs Nawabi Haleem. His uncle, Nawab, was the first to bring the delicacy in its most authentic form to the city. While over the years the popularity of Nawabi Haleem has soared, they didn’t scale up business to meet the demand.
“We have maintained the same standards and flavour from the time we started. You can’t assure the quality in mass production,” says Shah. Today the owners of many other temporary stalls that have sprung up in the area say that their main inspiration to start haleem enterprises was because of Nawabi Haleem.
While traditional stalls have their steady clientèle, hotels like Green Park and The Park too have started catering to the growing demand for the month’s special delicacy. The small, tastefully decorated counter at Hotel Green Park sells mini and big packs of chicken and mutton haleem between 6 pm and 10 pm. And if you prefer yours to be on the milder side of spicy, this can be your best bet. The takeaway counter also offers special dishes like khubani ka meetha and double ka meetha along with chicken and mutton biryani. Other restaurants like Paradise are also gearing up with takeaway haleem counters.
(This festive dish will be available in most places till June 15.)
