Asafumi Yamashita is a prominent name in the esteemed kitchens of Paris. That’s the standard that his farm, Ferme Yamashita, has set in the industry across Paris today.
Located in a remote part of France, in the town of Chapet, lives the man who could only be described as a Michelin-star couture vegetable master. If such a phrase existed. His estate is spread across a mere 4,000 square metres, connected to his home. Traditional architecture marks his den, with its light blue shutters exhaling calmness. Further across, the farmstead has islands of many a masterpiece — each growing in a small patch or a greenhouse.
Yamashita did not accomplish this miracle overnight. He used to be in the bonsai plant business, but tragedy struck: his plants were lifted. With no assets remaining from this operation, he moved on to the next legitimate art he knew: growing vegetables. Raised in Tokyo amongst a family of foodies, he has the innate sixth sense to distinguish between aromas, flavours, and textures. He started using various dried seeds from his home country. From then on, there was no looking back for this humble gentleman.
Yamashita nurtures select varieties of vegetables, based on the season. In most scenarios, farmers cultivate produce that is native to the land, but Yamashita is producing numerous Japanese varieties on French soil. The question is how, but that is a secret he cannot divulge.
During our walk around his little estate, he shares a little secret, “I am the produce that I grow.” He literally plants himself in his crops’ shoes, in this case, the soil. This allows him to guide his actions and has truly shaped him into being a very hands-on farmer, inspecting every nook and cranny. On certain days of the week, he focusses on his flower bed, then the vegetable patches, and lastly the greenhouses, leaving nothing behind.
The taste, feel and tenderness of the vegetables are one of a kind. I had the opportunity to pull a bunch of vivid, Kyoto red carrots straight out of the earth. A quick rinse later, I took a big bite and Yamashita had truly stuck to his word. It was crisp, succulent, glistening and ready to be utilised by any stellar cook.
He created a niche market for himself within a short time. Only because he grows Japanese varieties for the French palates. He is otherwise known as the ‘Daikon Radish Master’, as he somehow manages to grow these all year around in Chapet, where the soil is known to be not so favourable. On his land, you will find the sophisticated Japanese siblings of all regular vegetables.
Ranging from Kabu, a white Japanese turnip, to Hakusai, a trademark cabbage; the list is long, rare and noteworthy.
His plot is not spread over acres and acres of land, but he somehow manages to achieve stellar perfection using the small space he owns. After all, he says, “It’s not at all about the quantity, since you can find that anywhere, but solely about the quality.”
Top of the world
He has carried this motto for more than 17 years, and now holds a celebrity farmer status amongst top Michelin star chefs in Paris. This club is so exclusive that you can single-handedly pick them from around the city.
This gives him the leverage to selectively choose not only his clients, but also what to deliver and at what price, no questions asked.
It is very unlikely that you have heard of Ferme Yamashita, but if you happen to be in France, make sure to add this to your bucket list. After all, when we walk into a fine-dining restaurant, we are usually never curious regarding the whereabouts of the fresh produce.
So next time you see a farmer of such high calibre, give them a swift pat on their back because they truly deserve it.
