There’s a grin that seems plastered on Boo Kim’s face as he bustles around serving customers at his new restaurant. It’s the smile of a chef who has achieved a dream, of opening his own restaurant. Dirty Buns screams out its name in neon lights at the entrance. The restaurant occupies what used to be Xico but, the change is substantial. Every section of the restaurant seems like a different space. There are Art Deco elements above the bar and chain links below it; a separate seating area sectioned with metal rods has shelves sparingly stacked with statues, binoculars and gold rollerblades. There’s a shining disco ball spinning near the DJ set. The wall at the end stands out for being choc-a-block with old TV sets, some screening Hindi and English classics. An interior element likely to get a chuckle is the snarky take on the exposed brick that’s commonplace in every new restaurant. Here the brick is exposed alright; it actually juts out of the wall.
Informal ambience
“I wanted Dirty Buns to be a casual, sit down space where you eat with your hands, nurse a drink at the bar and if you feel like dancing, go ahead and do it,” says Kim. “I will push aside tables so you can get down and dirty.” The dancing will be reserved for upcoming hip-hop nights or Boo’s Crew Thursdays, which will see Kim take over the bar to create cocktails, accompanied by simple but hearty ramen bowls.
Until then, there are dirty cocktails to dip into. Yuzu (₹475) has white wine and soda and a heavy citrus base but combines to make a refreshing drink.
Purple Haze (₹425) pairs the sweetness of jamun with bitter notes of gin to create a mellow, acidic drink. Dirty Buns Martini (₹325) is a real surprise: the drink is strong, heavy on the lime and cleverly uses a tendli pickle juice instead of cucumber for a puckering aftertaste.
Anytime eats
The food will be familiar to those who have eaten Kim’s food before. There’s an emphasis on big, bold flavours, a heavy Korean and Asian influence, and plenty of homemade sauces and dips (ask for the banana ketchup). “This is food you can eat at any time of the day or night,” he says. We start off our meal with lobster, served two ways. There’s a salad (₹650) that combines butter poached lobster, charred corn, cherry tomatoes, avocado, lettuce, and boiled eggs. The charred corn is an inspired touch, adding sweetness and crunch. Our Lobster Roll (₹750) brings together lobster with garlic and butter, stuffed in a bun with crispy onions on the side. It’s warm, wholesome and makes for a meal on its own.
The bread, made by Magazine Street Kitchen, is eggless. While we would’ve preferred the lobster roll without the bread, it truly shines in the Mac n Cheese (₹450). Here, it is stuffed with macaroni liberally topped with cheddar, parmesan and bread crumbs. There’s a hint of truffle oil to bring some earthiness to the dish. The buns in the restaurant’s name find space in rolls, baos and even the desserts. Those who can do without the carb can choose to replace them with lettuce cups. We do the same for our Bulgogi Bao (₹550) and Corn Fritters (₹350). In the former, the meat is a letdown in texture and flavour. But the Corn Fritters are perfect monsoon food, absolutely crisp and filled with charred corn. Another dish that stands out is Crispy Prawn (₹450): bite-sized, golden brown batter, lightly herbed prawns served with a hot and smoky sesame-chilli dip.
Sweet nothings
The desserts aren’t on par with the rest of the food. Crème Brule is served as a doughnut with a melted sugar coat with vanilla pastry cream, mangoes and whipped cream. It’s a dessert with a twist but the whipped cream and vanilla making it cloyingly heavy.
The Chocolate Chip Cookie (₹500) suffers from an overdose of sweetness though the cookie is chewy enough and here’s sea salt ice cream to balance it out. Dirty Buns certainly stands out for its offerings in a saturated Kamala Mills market. The last time we met Kim was at One Street before he left for a six-month sabbatical and ‘went home and just ate everything in sight’. He is here to stay. “I love this city. This is home. I am not going anywhere,” he says.
Dirty Buns, Kamala Mills Compound, Lower Parel; 5 p.m. to 1 a.m.; 24978910, 8433988838
