Colour, cut and texture are at the heart of everything that Aratrik Dev Varman does. It harks back to the boy from Tripura, who grew up amongst the kanjeevarams and muga silks of Madras and Calcutta, before putting down roots in the fabric capital, Ahmedabad. His oeuvre at his design label, Tilla, explores the handwoven, such as khadi and jamdani , and his latest collection, Banni — a nod to Gujarat’s crafts, which have always been a “huge pull” — is no exception. Presented by design house Good Earth, which has hosted brands such as Pero, Anavila and Raw Mango in the past, Banni revives prints and thread work, including Rogan block printing, appliqué and beadwork embroidery.
Stories in teal and red
Using heritage embroideries and reclaimed textiles — bandhni on gajji silk, mashru , and mirror-work panels — the Spring Summer 2020 line offers free-flowing silhouettes like Kutchi abhos and odhanas , along with contemporary separates. “Rather than creating new embroidery work, we’ve revived and upcycled old techniques and given them a new lease of life, something that I’m very excited about,” says Varman, 40. The designs also attempt to capture the essence of the state’s many nomadic cultures, like the Rabaris, Ahirs and Meghwals.
A teal blue abho (a traditional Kutchi tunic), for example, has a vintage embroidered yoke with mirror work and embroidery, known as Sindhi Taropa , on a zari cotton base, with long sleeves that call to mind the chura (bangles) of a Rabari woman. “The colours are also typical of Kutch, whether it is the various shades of white, the dark red or the shades of indigo that we have included,” Varman concludes.
Starting from ₹8,000 onwards, the collection is available at the Good Earth Khan Market store and at Raghuvanshi Mills outlet from March 6.
