Bengaluru man revives a 19th-century French perfumery to make gin

Bhagath Reddy has revitalised a perfume distillery in Grasse, France, crafting distinct spirits such as 44°N Gin and 06 Vodka Rosé with a perfume-inspired approach

November 11, 2023 09:21 am | Updated 07:30 pm IST

44°N Gin

44°N Gin | Photo Credit: Special arrangement

“My father and grandfather both enjoy whiskey and through them, I developed an appreciation for it. It’s almost as if single malt runs in our veins instead of blood,” chuckles Bhagath Reddy, CEO and founder of Comte de Grasse, who launched his 44°N Gin and 06 Vodka Rosé around June this year in India.

The Bengalurean went on to establish his distillery in the 19th-century perfumery, Roure Bertrand & Fils, in Grasse, France, the fragrance capital of the world. Grasse is home to perfume development centres of luxury brands such as Chanel, Dior, and Louis Vuitton. (It is also where the jasmine for Chanel No. 5 perfume is grown.)

 19th-century perfumery, Roure Bertrand & Fils, in Grasse, France which is now a distillery for Comte de Grasse

 19th-century perfumery, Roure Bertrand & Fils, in Grasse, France which is now a distillery for Comte de Grasse | Photo Credit: Special arrangement

Comte de Grasse distillery, in Grasse, France

Comte de Grasse distillery, in Grasse, France | Photo Credit: Special arrangement

Now, the distillery produces 44°N Gin and 06 Vodka Rosé. Bhagath explains why his distillery fits so well into the perfumery. “Both perfume and spirits traditionally rely on copper pot stills for distillation,” he says, adding that the expertise, techniques, and technology used in fragrances can be applied to the creation of spirits.

When Bhagath arrived in the south of France and met with researchers to discuss his idea of using copper pot stills for distillation, he was surprised to learn that none existed. “They said, ‘we’re trying to figure out where we can find a copper still for you.’ I said, ‘What do you mean? This is the perfume capital of the world. They should be here, everywhere.’ That’s when they told me, ‘Yes, they’re here, but in museums. And it’s because nobody has actively used this technology in perfumery for the past 30 years,’” Bhagath recounts.

Bhagath Reddy, CEO and founder of Comte de Grasse

Bhagath Reddy, CEO and founder of Comte de Grasse | Photo Credit: Special arrangement

Gin production

Gin production | Photo Credit: Special arrangement

That is when he discovered that perfume distilleries had embraced modern science for their production. Over the past 30 years, perfumes required advanced technology and research to extract delicate botanicals such as jasmine and roses efficiently. In contrast, the spirits industry leaned on tradition and aging. This, according to him, transitioned his company into a liquor tech company that utilises modern science to craft its spirits.

The 44°N Gin undergoes a distinctive three-step process. Ultrasonic maceration rapidly infuses botanicals like alexanders, samphire, verbena, grapefruit, immortelle, rosa centifolia, mimosa, jasmine, and lavender, surpassing traditional gin distillation methods. Vacuum distillation in a 100-litre flask, during the second step, evaporates the liquid at lower temperatures, increasing alcohol content while preserving the aromatic profile.

The final step involves CO2 extraction, originally used by perfumers, to extract essential oils from botanicals. Bhagath highlights, “This three-step method is our own and uses less energy and natural resources than traditional gin production and makes the process faster.”

Comte de Grasse’s approach draws heavily from the technology side of distillation and extraction; and is collaborating with the Côte d’Azur University, where they are sponsoring a PhD thesis on the development of new extraction techniques.

Comte de Grasse distillery, in Grasse, France

Comte de Grasse distillery, in Grasse, France | Photo Credit: Special arrangement

Dehydrated rosa centifolia

Dehydrated rosa centifolia | Photo Credit: Special arrangement

The name 44°N is a nod to Grasse’s latitude and the gin is a result from more than a year of research and development, which included studying 200 botanicals and extracts.

The rosa centifolia, used in this gin, blooms in May in the Provence region of France. Grasse has a long-standing tradition of a May rose harvest dating back to the Middle Ages. Bhagath explains, “These roses transition from a beautiful fragrance to a sweaty armpit-like odour within three hours of being picked. To preserve their scent, we place them in our specialised drying unit, where they dehydrate under controlled humidity and heat to intensify their fragrance.”

The gin offers a unique olfactory journey, beginning with scents of lemon and grapefruit, followed by floral notes of Grasse’s rosa centifolia and jasmine. Bitter orange introduces jammy undertones, and angelica adds a herbaceous kick. The base features tangy warm spicy notes of alexanders, with orris and honey, ensuring a sweet yet musky, long-lasting effect on the palate, complementing the floral and citrus notes.

“The gin’s bottle design is inspired by a perfume bottle,” says Bhagath. The blue klein glass is crafted to resemble the Mediterranean, with the cork and top symbolising the sun and its rays. The handcrafted pattern at the bottom captures the ripples of the Mediterranean Sea.

O6 vodka rosé

O6 vodka rosé | Photo Credit: Special arrangement

In 2022, Comte de Grasse launched “06,” a 100% French vodka rosé. This vodka draws inspiration from Provence and is crafted by infusing organic rosé wine from Chateau Vert, AOP ‘Côte de Provence,’ into French winter wheat vodka, resulting in a unique spirit. Marie-Anne Contamin, a master distiller and former aromatician, created an active wine extraction method to make this vodka rosé.

“It condenses flavour molecules, preserving the aromas and pigments from grape skins. Using modern distillery equipment like ultrasonic maceration, it fuses Provencal rosé with French winter wheat vodka through a liquid-to-liquid extraction,” says Bhagath.

Crafted in 2018, the gin (₹ 11,230) is available for purchase in retail stores in Delhi, Haryana, and Uttar Pradesh, while the O6 Vodka Rosé (₹ 6,540) can be found in Delhi, Gurugram, and Uttar Pradesh.

O6 vodka rosé

O6 vodka rosé | Photo Credit: Special arrangement

44°N Gin

44°N Gin | Photo Credit: Special arrangement

Dehydrated rosa centifolia

Dehydrated rosa centifolia | Photo Credit: Special arrangement

Science behind the spirit

Science behind the spirit | Photo Credit: Special arrangement

Science behind the spirit

Science behind the spirit | Photo Credit: Special arrangement

Comte de Grasse distillery

Comte de Grasse distillery | Photo Credit: Special arrangement

Comte de Grasse distillery

Comte de Grasse distillery | Photo Credit: Special arrangement

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