Chef Jason James Hudanish does not like to use the word authentic while describing the food at the newly-opened Mexican restaurant Pompa in Bandra. Instead, he uses ‘traditional’, because as he says, “it is all about technique”. Fortunately, we do not have to wait too long to sample his statement. The blue corn chips — made with blue heirloom corn from Mexico — served with a plate of seven housemade salsas in ascending order of spice levels showcase distinct techniques.
In the chipotle salsa, for instance, the sweetness of the roasted tomatoes complements the smokiness of the chipotle, and in the hibiscus salsa, the flower is blanched, dehydrated and mixed with onion, garlic and red habanero peppers for a sweet and spicy salsa with floral undertones. Our favourite though is the slightly unusual banana salsa in which the sweetness of ripened bananas and the heat from yellow habanero peppers results in a salsa with tropical undertones and a fiery kick.
Keenan and Ryan Tham | Photo Credit: Special Arrangement
The brief to Jason to create a Mexican menu with traditional dishes targeted for an Indian audience came from the Tham brothers — Keenan and Ryan Tham, the co-founders of Pebble Street Hospitality — their Asian restaurants Foo and Koko are growing from strength to strength with several outlets in different cities — who along with their partner Saamir Chandnani wanted to offer a new product to their customers. “As entrepreneurs, we like to be at the forefront, understand global trends and try to bring those experiences to our audience,” says Keenan.
With a legacy that spans three generations of the Thams, including the now-shut Kamling, Mandarin, and Henry Tham; and the thriving Foo and Koko in Mumbai, Keenan believes that it is imperative that they give their customers more options other than Asian cuisine. “Mexican in Mumbai has generally been a little distorted but with people travelling globally, they have a better understanding of it. In places such as London, Dubai and Hong Kong, Latin and Mexican food is trending, and we felt that Mumbai too is ready for a product like this. Times are changing and what didn’t work maybe 10 years earlier, may work today,” he says.
The panco-crusted sea bass | Photo Credit: Special Arrangement
Pompa is a welcome entrant in the casual premium Mexican space in Mumbai, a cuisine which up till now was dominated with QSR outlets. On a weekday night, the first-floor restaurant is abuzz with unhurried conversations and laughter over the tinkle of cocktails and indulgent food.
As you enter, you walk past traditional Mexican masks adorning one wall of the reception lobby and vintage terracotta pots invoking Mexico’s rich pottery tradition on another. Shades of sage green envelope the space. Jewel-toned lighting installations, and a circular showstopper in the form of an illuminated bar add a flamboyant touch to the decor.
Vineeth Krishnan, bar head, Pompa, proceeds to serve the Mezcal-forward Pomparita with its hint of truffle salt. Sadly, the truffle goes unnoticed but the smoky mezcal with agave nectar and sweetness from fino sherry and tanginess from lime and lemon make it a perfect first drink. The salmon ceviche that follows opens up our palate further. Lightly lemon-cured salmon and thin slices of avocado are served on a pool of aji-amarillo leche de tigre — an intense and creamy broth made with spicy Peruvian yellow chillies, onion, garlic and celery. We devour the ceviche and soak up the leftover broth with rice crackers.
Pompa offers traditional Mexican fare with a twist | Photo Credit: Assad Dadan
The next dish to impress is lamb birria served with a tangy consommé dip. The griddle-toasted shredded lamb mixed with different cheeses — also a great binder so that the stuffing does not fall off while dipping – in the crispy blue corn tortilla is a match made in lamb heaven. Some of the other dishes worth mentioning — and tasting — are the butter-poached lobster tacos topped with a bit of truffle oil, cabbage slaw and salsa macha and the panko-crusted sea bass which is lightly fried and finished in the oven to retain its tenderness.
The paletas at Pompa | Photo Credit: Special Arrangement
From the desserts section, we recommend the sweet and savoury choco tacos that have a creamy vanilla bean ice cream filling and roasted white chocolate mousse in the centre. The paletas — traditional Mexican popsicles — in strawberry, tres leches and spiced chocolate flavours are a great way to end the meal as well.
Pompa is at First floor, VN Sphere mall, Linkin Road, Bandra West, Mumbai.
Meal for two at ₹2,000 plus taxes (without alcohol). Currently open for dinner 7 pm onwards. For, reservations call 9930507673.
