The colloquial Gen-Z slang, “Is-a vibe”, caught Delhi-based restaurateur Ashish Wadhwani’s fancy while naming his new riverside diner and bar at Siolim, a village in North Goa. He, along with Rishi Kajaria and Ankoor Pasari, opened ISSA on March 8.
The restaurant, which can accommodate 120 guests, has an enclosed ground floor — air-conditioned and sound-proofed, with a soothing beige palette. Its ash wood furnishings, set the mood for a relaxed fine-dining experience. The upper floor offers an informal, deck-like terrace with an expansive bar, cosy couches, artwork-adorned walls and a panoramic view of the Chapora river.
The walls, which run along the staircase connecting the two floors of the restaurant, showcase art inspired by Italian painter Sandro Botticelli’s fine strokes, Portuguese Azzulejo (painted blue tiles) and wooden frames depicting local Goan artistry.
Risotto of Mushrooms | Photo Credit: Special arrangement
The menu comprises modern European comfort food with a nod to Mediterranean influences. It also has a pasta section — fettuccine with a chorizo and pulled pork ragout. For vegetarians, there is ravioli with tomato basil ragu, spinach and black garlic. The hand-tossed chicken tikka pizza with a smoky flavour, charred onions and pickled chillies is satisfying, while the classic pepperoni pizza will satiate carnivores. Vegetarian options include mushroom pizza and an ISSA green pizza with beans, asparagus, leeks, and broccoli tossed in pesto.
Executive Chef Vijay Bawangade, explains, “We’ve given our own little twists to some European classics, and used local ingredients — chonak, chorizo, alsande beans, kokum — wherever possible, keeping the flavours simple.”
As I tuck into ISSA’s special butter garlic prawns, I acquiesce with the chef. A hint of aglio e olio, but with a chilli parmesan emulsion, heightens the flavours and is perfect for dunking the accompanying garlic bread. The burrata chaat, is an explosion of flavours as the creamy burrata, dusted with beetroot powder, comes alive with the tamarind and mint dressing and the smashed, batter-fried chickpeas.
Chonak Ceviche | Photo Credit: Special arrangement
Smart, innovative cooking is evident in the chonak ceviche, where the local fish, chonak, blends into the Peruvian delicacy. The mild and less tangy lemon-feni granita, dilutes the impact.
For mains, the cauli bowl, with tandoori cauliflower, resting on a bed of alsande (Goa red beans) rice, slathered in a pea and pistachio curry, awakens the palate. There is a Goan rice bowl too, for sea food lovers. Other stand-out dishes are jackfruit tacos, a dozen mussels and pumpkin and brie skewers.
Tequila by champs | Photo Credit: Special arrangement
From classics to simple but flavourful creations, ISSA’s cocktail menu, offers seven signature cocktails and 10 classics. Mixologist Revanth’s approach of less is more is refreshing.
Feni is cleverly used in their signature offerings. The P2 (Peru picante) ingeniously substitutes tequila with feni, mixed with in-house jalapeno cordial and guava soda, resulting in a spicy-sweet sensation. The Grand Union, where coconut feni is infused with coriander, bell pepper, agave, lime and pineapple foam, is apt for balmy Goa.
A dozen mussels | Photo Credit: Special arrangement
A meal for two (sans alcohol) at ISSA costs nearly ₹4,500 plus taxes.
