As one takes a stroll through Fort Kochi, past the thick walls of Princess Street and on towards the Parade ground, the history which is buried deep within unravels itself. Mysterious and charming in its demeanour, the former colonial outpost invites people from everywhere. It is bestowed with much grace, but one that often gets lost behind the glamour of tourism.
In the early 16th century the Portuguese inhabited Fort Kochi, followed by the Dutch, and then the English. As each inhabitant left the territory, they left their imprint and a heritage that is preserved till date. Sheela Abraham has been living in Fort Kochi for more than 60 years. She previously resided near the beach but currently lives outside the “town,” a common reference to the heart of Fort Kochi.
She says about a fond childhood memory , “it was the streets, they were impeccably clean and prim and proper like an English aristocrat”. After a thoughtful pause she continues, “The streets were full of people, greeting one another from their homes. Everybody always seemed quite happy, just simply happy”.
Fort Kochi now known as the ‘Biennale town’ took some radical steps to become what it is today. It was back in 1967 that it was declared a heritage zone and the government has since adhered to the policy of protecting the heritage, by disallowing demolition of existing buildings and restricting the construction of flats.
Since half a decade ago nearly 70 per cent of the residential homes have been converted into hotels or homestays. “After trade moved to Ernakulum, Fort Kochi began dying, the only hope that existed was to declare it a heritage zone. Thus after a detailed study by INTACH and with government support, Fort Kochi become what it is today thereby preserving its culture,” says K.J. Sohan, Chairman of the Standing Committee for Town Planning at Corporation of Cochin. Thus this need to preserve the old charm of Fort Kochi came with a price, calling for a lifestyle change of the existing residents. Now, Fort Kochi emits the scent of a bustling trading town, a different type of trade though, and the people have happily merged with this picture.
The Dutch brought with them breads and bakers that were warmly welcomed along with other small businesses, paving way for a generation of entrepreneurs. Fort Kochi has now changed itself into a hospitality centre, based on the values and cultures that it absorbed. As a matter of fact, it is one of the few towns to which foreigners are no strangers and change, a long standing friend. Ms Shirley Stan, a resident in her late 70s recalls that, “somehow everything seems distorted and weary; it’s not like our times. The streets were full of people that I knew and grew up with. But now many have migrated to different countries and I no longer recognise anybody.” She continues, “Fort Kochi has been home to many unfamiliar faces and we have always been quite welcoming, so change was never really a problem around here, we always coped with it.”
A young man from the area , Vishnu Prakash, says “I love that it is an art city, but at the same time I want to experience the old. I want Fort Kochi to go back to its roots and find that culture it once had and still manage to create the present ambience.”
Fort Kochi has changed tremendously over the years, and some of these changes were necessary, whereas others just took their course. Being a tourist destination it hasn’t lost its old charm as there will always be something more to this town than what meets the eye. Hence, with opinions both old and young, Fort Kochi thrives in all its glory and offers a wide array of opportunities, with history shimmering like a mirage amidst all the change. .
