The Pearl at the Taj

After a meal at Red Pearl, you can't help saying, ‘wah Taj!'

February 09, 2012 08:47 pm | Updated 08:47 pm IST

I would have loved writing about the Peking Duck. I watch enough of the Travel and Living Channel to know that it is to be lusted after. And it is there on the menu of Red Pearl, the latest Chinese restaurant in town, at Vivanta By Taj Surya. And Chinese food lovers can cheer as the chef-in-charge, Zhai Jin Tao, has come all the way from China to ensure a ‘real' experience. Just for that, I decide not to ask for my usual Gopi Manjurian and Chilli Panner!

Elegant is the word that springs to mind to describe the ambience of Red Pearl. Smiling attendants usher you in, seat you and hand you the menu. I know that a vegetarian food reviewer is not a favourite with restaurants as their best is usually the non-vegetarian fare, but when I apologetically tell the chef I am the ghaas poos kind, he says “No problem leave it to us.”

Simple and stylish

The menu card is a welcome relief. No overload of dishes. No effusive descriptions. A little note at the bottom that says that the chef would be happy to prepare anything specific you may desire. There is also a request that the diners tell the staff of any allergies the cook should know about before he prepares their order. I decide to be difficult and ask if the wonton starters can be steamed instead of deep fried as it says in the menu. Of course they can, and soon they arrive in their bamboo containers, steaming hot. They are delicious and I can't stop eating them. Fortunately for the wonton masters in the kitchen, the soup diverts my attention. It is clear with crunchy gherkin and broccoli and the well named silky tofu. It just slips down your throat.

The little big things

An attentive maitre d', noting the rapturous response to the tofu, materialises by the table with a pack of the tofu so that I can see for myself which brand had been used. For that gesture alone, Red Pearl earns brownie points! It is the little things that make the big difference.

The main course is beautifully presented. There is certain joy in eating off elegant flatware and cutlery. They are stylish without being fussy. Delicate porcelain cups are constantly refilled with jasmine tea.

For the main course we have vegetable fried rice, noodles and a stir fried combination of Shitake and other mushrooms. We also have delicately flavoured vegetables in garlic sauce.

The nice thing about the meal is that it doesn't leave you with the uncomfortable “I wish I had not stuffed myself so much” feeling. It actually takes me to a happy place, that is about to get happier.

I eschew my usual date pancake with vanilla ice cream (which is also there), and order a calorific chocolate stuffed spring roll ( I did have the wontons steamed didn't I?). It arrives on a white rectangular porcelain plate. In the centre are two golden brown fat cigar-shaped rolls. The crisp layer gives way to deep brown chocolate as you bite into them. Oh yes, on the side is a scoop of vanilla ice-cream served in a tuile – a wafer thin edible cup made of dough - just like they show on the TLC.

The Red Pearl is open only for dinner from 7.30 p.m. For details and reservation, call 0422-6681000

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