It’s not an area that I visit often. But when I do, I am always struck by the small eateries that I see there. I am talking about the busy neighbourhood behind the Ghalib Academy on Mata Sundari College across the School Lane flyover. Every time I pass by, I tell myself that this is a place that has to be probed. I did a bit of that earlier this week, and was reasonably happy with the outcome.
How to reach
The small eatery I visited is called Shoaib Alam’s dhaba. Take the School Lane Flyover from Barakhamba Road (if you are coming from India Gate), and then turn right once you have descended from the flyover. This is the road that will eventually take you to the Ghalib Academy if you meander around a bit, and even to Deen Dayal Upadhyaya Marg if you meander some more. If you turn right after taking the right turn from the flyover, you will find Shoaib’s dhaba. But don’t look for a board.
There are quite a few shacks there, all selling biryani and korma. I looked around and found that most had only chicken dishes to offer – chicken biryani, korma, curry and so on. Shoaib’s dhaba, on the other hand, had chicken as well as biryani cooked with buffalo meat. So I thought I’d get my lunch from there. I was also encouraged by the fact that the place had quite a crowd in front of it. It was a little before one pm, but already people had gathered there for lunch. There are a few benches where you can sit and eat if you wish to. I asked for my food to be packed – which they did in polythene bags.
I asked for a plate of buff biryani (Rs.120 for a kilo), buff meat korma and keema (both Rs.30 for a plate) and chicken korma (Rs.50). Once the friends had all gathered, the food was taken out. I tried out the biryani first, and found it rather nice. It was spicy – and seemed to include something like a pickle which gave the rice a nice flavour and taste.
What I liked about his gravy dishes was the fact that each had a distinct taste. The keema, for instance, was a bit tangy, the chicken korma was a bit light, and we discovered (after draining out quite a good quantity of oil) that the buff meat korma gravy was thick and nice to eat. The problem was with the pieces – they were much too tough. Just one ‘seeti’ more (as we say in pressure-cooker parlance) would have made it perfect.
I liked the tangy keema (though that was oily too) and the chicken korma. I liked the prices as well. Where will you get a plate of chicken korma for Rs.50? The pieces were small, no doubt, but the taste was good.
This is a neighbourhood which is going to turn into quite a food hub. I remember eating and enjoying a plate of chicken biryani that a friend had got from there (though I don’t know which of the eateries it came from) several years ago. The regulars there are people who work or live in the locality. Shoaib’s buff korma can be better, no doubt, but the place is worth a visit. Next time, though, I hope he gets the ‘seetis’ right.
The author is a seasoned street food connoisseur
