When less is more

This restaurant, for a change, has neither. Neither does it have an enormous ‘multi-cuisine’ buffet with 50 plus items nor does it boast of an a la carte with strange dishes. What it does have though is a limited but excellent selection of dishes that is not only fulfilling but leaves you wanting for more.

January 01, 2010 06:11 pm | Updated January 02, 2010 05:37 pm IST

Buffet at Keys Hotel restaurant

Buffet at Keys Hotel restaurant

Fine dining at Keys Café in the recently opened Keys Hotel is an unusual experience for gourmets in the city, spoilt for choice as they are with elaborate buffets and exotic a la carte menus. This restaurant, for a change, has neither. Neither does it have an enormous ‘multi-cuisine’ buffet with 50 plus items nor does it boast of an a la carte with strange dishes. What it does have though is a limited but excellent selection of dishes that is not only fulfilling but leaves you wanting for more.

It’s an unusual experience also because of the unusualness of its décor. The moment you enter though, the cavernous, space-module-like foyer done up in futuristic white, black, glass and chrome leaves you wondering with incredulity what such an ultramodern space is doing in the heart of the city. Needless to say the décor instantly becomes the hot topic for conversation during the meal. Inside the restaurant it’s much the same. It’s a brightly lit up predominately white space, with a shiny red wall at one end that lends an arresting splash of colour and huge French windows at the other end, and spotless white tables and hardback chairs more suited for an whistle-stop airport lounge, but a refreshing change none the less.

The menu at Keys Cafe is one that let us gourmets know that less can actually be more – in taste and in quantity. Take the buffet, for instance, which mostly has regional and continental dishes. The choice is limited… a small salad bar, choice of vegetarian or non-vegetarian soup, a couple of flavourful rice dishes, four or so varieties of scrumptious non-vegetarian delicacies (including at least one each of chicken, meat and fish), a few vegetarian items and a small dessert counter, all served on colourful serving dishes (just like one would put out when we have a small posse of guests over for a meal) and more importantly not a hot plate in sight! “A

deliberate choice on our part to maintain quality,” explains executive chef Saumitra Suryavanshi. “This way after every five portions we have to refresh the serving dishes,” he adds.

The a la carte menu though is a bit more extensive. The ‘Soups, Salads and Starters’ section has a handful of appetizers such as Ceasar salad with bacon or grilled cheese and ‘Fresh tomato mozzarella bruchetta. For those wanting a quick snack there is a ‘Light Meals’ section with the likes of Herb spiced burger and Malabar tenderloin chilli in toasted baguette. Then there is the ‘Something Substantial’ section divided into ‘Continental,’ ‘North Indian’ and ‘Simply South’ with more elaborate meals. ‘Bangers and Mash in red wine glaze’ and ‘Crumb fried fish with tartar sauce’ of the Continental, ‘Quintessential tandoor with mint chutney’ and ‘Kadai paneer’

of the North Indian and ‘Chemeen curry with tapioca’ and ‘Quintessential ishtew’ of Simply South are some of the must haves. All the dishes have quite generous portions, and the North Indian and Simply South dishes come with a choice of breads. There is also a small section of drinks with items such as lassi and tender coconut water. The buffet sets you back by Rs.325 (for dinner) or Rs.275 (for lunch with more of local dishes), while the a la carte dishes cost about Rs.100 or so for the appetizers to about Rs.250/300 for the something substantials. In all a satisfying treat. Contact: 3944100

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