Getting a seat for lunch at Shri Jayavilas Sappattu Club is like getting a first-day-first-show ticket for a Rajinikanth film. The place is so crowded that you have to wait for hours to get a chance to relish their dishes. More than half-a-century old, the eatery, with a pigeon-hole entrance, is popular among epicures. Refusing to change over the years, the joint has retained its old-world charm, ambience and taste.
In those days, eateries serving non-vegetarian food were fondly referred to as clubs, where friends clubbed together and had food. There were many clubs such as the Melmadi Club and Thavamani Vilas Club in the city, but all of them have disappeared over the years, except this one.
The story so far
A stone’s throw from the Meenakshi Sundareswarar Temple on North Avani Moola Street, the joint was opened by PA Perumal in 1950, to cater to the palates of small-time businessmen and workers who were employed in the several business establishments in and around the temple. “That was a time when eating out was taboo. It was considered a luxury. Our main customers were those who came to the city from neighbouring villages for business and could not return home before noon. Since the city is a buzzing business hub, many people found our food to their liking. But people then were more concerned about quality and taste than ambience,” says P Ayyakkani, the proprietor.
Madurai, Tamil Nadu, 15/08/2017: For Metroplus: Signature dish of Jeyavilas Sappatu Club in Madurai. Photo: R. Ashok
Tucked between small shops and Puthu Mandapam, it is easy to miss the eatery. As you enter, after a mini hunt, a narrow passage greets you. You pass through and it opens out to a spacious dining area with heritage structures around. “The place is more than a century old and the owners rented it out to us with the condition that the space be conserved as it was. I have retained not only the legacy of my father but have also honoured the sentiments of the building’s owners,” says Ayyakkani, who runs the restaurant with his nephew B Saravana Kumar.
On the menu
Traditional recipes distinguish this joint from the others. Earlier, they cooked their food in mud pots, but now they use only lead-coated copper vessels for the food preparation. “Such vessels have medicinal value. With liberal use of fertilisers and pesticides these days, there is every chance of food getting stale faster. Also, pesticides can create indigestion. It is believed that using copper vessels reduces the effect to a certain level,” he says.
Every dish tastes different here, though the basic ingredients for all the masalas are the same. “It all depends on the proportion we add. My father left me with the ratio of ingredients for each recipe. We use ginger, garlic, onion, cumin seeds, pepper, cinnamon, cloves and garam masala for all the dishes, but the proportion differs for different gravies. Moreover, we emphasise on retaining the flavour of the dish. The customer should be able to make out the dish with the flavour. This way, we have earned a good customer base over the years,” Ayyakkani says. Food here is moderately spicy, though non-vegetarian eateries in the city are known for their spicy food. They have successfully fused the Chettinad and Virudhunagar style of cooking. “We have our own distinct style. Earlier, all the masalas were hand-ground. But we use grinders now,” says Ayyakkani.
Madurai, Tamil Nadu, 15/08/2017: For Metroplus: Signature dish of Jeyavilas Sappatu Club in Madurai. Photo: R. Ashok
Signature serving
Their signature dish is Milagu Chukka (small cubes of succulent mutton cooked with masala and oil) and Ayira Meen Kozhambu (freshwater loach gravy prepared with tamarind pulp). To keep in line with modern trends, they have also introduced new recipes, Sivakasi chicken (supreme chicken and leg pieces marinated and cooked in masala and oil) is one such dish. “This dish is no different from the Chicken Chukka . With changing trends, people look for catchy names,” he says.
Ayyakkani introduced muttai dhum (parotta stuffed with egg and mutton kheema) for their evening meals. With its strong dose of spices, the dish is very popular with his customers.
Meals here cost ₹90 and a plate of every special dish is ₹120. “When I was young, I have seen my father selling sappadu (meals) for ₹1 a plate, and the cost of each of the special items was 80 paise,” he recalls.
All are welcome
The place is big enough to hold 50 people at a time. Even today, people who visit the city to purchase silk saris for weddings, make it a point to come here, as it is a custom in practice for years. “Though it is an advantage to run any business here, it is also a disadvantage, given the parking problem. Eating out has become more of an experience in modern times, and people now are more concerned about parking facilities and ambience. We are also planning to branch out. But, it will take time,” Ayyakkani says. Without a swanky ambience and an extensive spread, this eatery has made an impact on food lovers, not only within the city, but also much beyond. Ayyakkani also accepts outdoor catering orders. Shri Jayavilas Sappattu Club is open for lunch between 12 noon and 4 pm and between 6.30 and 11.30 pm for dinner.
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