There’s an unmatchable animation about Chef Kuan Lai as he darts about the kitchen with all the grace of a composed professional. Upon sitting down with him, he may be stationary but there’s still a light in his eyes as he preps to talk about all things edible.
He starts off by placing the menu of the PanAsian Inspiration food festival in front of me, immediately recommending dishes he thinks I’d like.
“You like meat?” he asks, looking at me expectantly. I nod — not out of compulsion but more out of eagerness — and he recommends beef pho and the crispy duck with hoisin sauce to start off with. “The menu is reflective of my Asia and what flavours I feel Indians will enjoy. I know Indians love vibrant food rich in spices and flavours; so you can see some deep-fried items. I understand pork isn’t huge here, but what is a Pan-Asian spread without crackling pork belly?”
Dialling it back, Chef Kuan cannot recall when he first fell in love with food, adding, “I come from a family that lives and thrives around food. We had a restaurant while I was growing up and we served all kinds of crabs; I’m talking about crabs that would be running about! My family did not want to compromise on how fresh the ingredients are and sometimes people like to pick out the crabs they’ll eventually eat.” It’s this homely touch of history that makes his current life all the more vibrant.
Breaking new ground
After pursuing food in a professional capacity, Chef Kuan has elevated it to an artistry. He’s travelled to various ends of the earth and has educated diners about the true flavours of Asia which often get Americanised or Indianised. His time in Cape Town made him intensely familiar with South African cooking vernacular.
Eventually in 2016, he solidified his status as a consultant chef in Kuan Kitchen Club where he talks to people about Asian cuisine and how the subcultures vary across each country and region, even hosting the occasional cooking class.
People across the web often compliment Chef Kuan on his animated means of communication while keeping the subject matter alive and interesting.
I understand pork isn’t huge here, but what is a Pan-Asian spread without crackling pork belly?
As dessert rolls around, he presents, with plenty of flourish, an Eight Treasure coconut jelly with suspended Goji berries, which speaks of his elevated sense of people’s palettes. I eye it sceptically and his appeal to my vanity with, “Goji berries make your skin glow,” had me hooked. It’s this sense of individual hospitality which sets him apart from many in the cuisine world and he’s more than happy to keep at it.
The entire spread from start to finish is visually spectacular too, worthy of a few Instagram posts; the colourful dishes make for a beautiful contrast to the dark tables upon which they’re set. That with the vivid personality of Chef Kuan makes a memorably flavourful evening.
PanAsian Inspiration is on till 30 November for dinner at Zega in Sheraton, Financial District.
