A diminutive man scurries between a long row of handis as he inspects the work being carried out. Each vat holds within it hot oil, onions and fresh spices that are being fried to make biryani for a school event. At the other end of the corridor are neatly portioned out platters of meat and spices, all set to go into the vats when Chef Rahmathullah gives the go-ahead. Fragrant basmati will be added once the meat is well-coated in the spices and cooked just right. The medley will then be cooked on dum to create Rahmathullah’s famous biryani .
The chef, who has been cooking biryani for over 30 years now, is in high demand. Apparently, in most Tamil Muslim homes, the minute the bride and groom agree to an alliance, the first thing that is discussed is biryani by Rahmathullah at the wedding feast. And now, he is all set to tantalise the taste buds of biryani lovers in the city at the three-day Biryani Fest by Chennai Food Guide and Hakico Foods, which kickstarts today at Hakico Live Kitchen.
As he beams at the thought of catering to so many taste buds, Rahmathullah says that making and serving biryani is what he truly enjoys. “I want my biryani to be the best. In fact, I believe that the mark of a good biryani is when you can smell its fragrance on the hand long after you’ve eaten,” he says.
At the fest, the chef will present his signature Tamil Muslim style of biryani that is dum cooked with long grain basmati rice and some of the finest cuts of meat. Served on a banana leaf, it will be accompanied by yennai kathirikkai , onion raitha and bread halwa . “The Tamil Muslim biryani is rather different from the other variants. Cooking it on dum on a wood fire lends it a wonderful smoky flavour. In fact, I’d say it is also spicier than the Hyderabadi version — this boasts the flavours of green chillies, ginger and garlic,” he explains.
The chef, who has a loyal fan following even abroad and regularly sends parcels of his biryani to countries such as the UK, Malaysia and the US, began cooking at the age of 18. “Before that, I would assist my father. He would sit on a stool in a corner and tell me what ingredient to add, how much of it, and at what stage. When I turned 18, I cooked biryani for a large gathering. To my delight, it turned out just the way appa would make,” he says, recalling how his father appreciated him with a simple pat on his first attempt.
Chef rahmathullah's biryani
Since then, the chef has cooked biryani for several large gatherings, some for politicians and celebrities. “The largest amount of biryani I’ve cooked was around 8,000 kilograms to feed nearly 48,000 people,” he smiles. What also sets Rahmathullah’s biryani apart is the meat-to-rice proportion. While most places use 1.5 kilograms of rice for a kilogram of meat, Rahmathullah turns around the ratio. “Also, if it’s biryani , it has to be mutton. Everything else is a compromise,” he laughs, although he does dish up some great chicken, fish and prawn biryani s.
He also insists on using fresh ingredients, especially the meat, for his biryani . “The first time I saw him put his hand into the mutton, I was taken aback. But that’s how he checks to see how fresh the meat is,” says Mohamed Ali, founder Chennai Food Guide, adding, “He made me try that as well.” While the chef has received several offers from Dubai and other countries, he is reluctant to leave India. “I don’t just want to be a cook in a hotel. I enjoy this so much more. I love watching the joy and satisfaction on the faces of people who’ve eaten my biryani at a wedding or a function,” he smiles.
