Kappayum Kattanum (Tapioca and Black Tea) - the name evokes nostalgia when I come across it on social media and I decide to check out the place. Although the post says it is near the western entrance of Sree Padmanabha Swamy Temple, there is no sign of the eatery at the place mentioned in the post. A flyer advertising the place hangs from a beach umbrella. A wooden stand and some plastic stools are also there.
As I look around, I find this youngster hurriedly bringing in several vessels from, presumably, his house, behind a row of shops. The vessels contain a light green chutney and roasted chutney powder. A plastic container is filled with pappadams. And then arrives seasoned tapioca in a huge clay pot, covered with a lid.
Gokul Subramanyam at Kappayum Kattanum Photo: S. Gopakumar
That is how I meet Gokul Subramanyam, who has opened this wayside eatery with only tapioca and black tea on the menu. A commerce graduate, he runs this small joint right in front of his own outlet selling electrical appliances. “It was an idea that I have been working on for sometime. After finishing my course, I worked as a sales executive with a company and then started running this electrical appliances shop. But demonetisation dealt a severe blow to my business and I had to come up with something to soften the financial crunch. And what better than an outlet selling tapioca. Tapioca is everybody’s favourite and I love my mother’s tapioca preparation. So I tried and tested the dish with my friends for three days. Once they gave the green signal, I opened Kappayum Kattanum,” says the 23-year-old.
Seasoned tapioca, green chilli chutney and roasted chutney Photo: S. Gopakumar
On the menu is a fiery combo of tapioca and chilli chutney made with the stinging kanthari mulaku or bird’s eye chilli, shallots and salt. “I started out with two-and-a-half kg of tapioca. Now I need 20 kg of tapioca daily to meet the rush!” Gokul adds with glee.
Another chutney is also his mom’s special. “Roast red chillies, garlic and shallots in coconut oil and then finely grind it without water. Add salt and your chutney is ready. I learnt it from my grandmother,” says Prasanna, Gokul’s mother.
Black tea is of different kinds - plain, ginger, lime, pudina or pudina-lime. Hungry customers can eat it at the joint, served on a plantain leaf. Quench your thirst on drinking water that has had Ramacham (a root with medicinal properties) added to it, served in tall bamboo glasses.
Gokul Subramanyam Photo: S. Gopakumar
The chilli chutney is so spicy that you must ensure that there is enough water to cool down your taste buds. There is no coconut oil in the chutney. The spice quotient can be reduced by adding oil. The special chutney is special indeed.
The place is open on all days, from 6.30 p.m. to 10.30 p.m. But it is best to be an early bird. While the tapioca combo is priced at Rs. 20, plain black tea costs Rs. 5 and other teas cost Rs. 10. Meanwhile, Gokul is planning to introduce pothichoru. Well, that’s for another day.
Contact: 8891212341
