Some of the best meals in India are to be had on its streets. My love for street food goes back to my school days in Kolkata, when I spent most evenings munching on crisp egg rolls.
My mum taught at a city college and would not be around when I’d return from school; she’d leave small change for my evening snack. I would come home, freshen up and head down to the roll wallah at the street corner, clutching the coins she had left for me. (This was the mid- 1980s.)
I would place my order and watch with great interest as the two young men, who ran the stall, lit the gas burner, portioned out dough, rolled out a paratha and put it on a hot tava . Soon enough, an egg would be cracked open on the paratha before being beaten with a skewer. Once done, a generous helping of onions and green chillies would be heaped onto the centre of the paratha. They then proceeded to add a squeeze of lime, followed by tomato and chilli sauces. All this would then be deftly rolled up, wrapped in butter paper and handed over to me to munch on as I made my way to the playground.
Twenty years ago I moved out of Kolkata. The roll- wallahs have since moved to another location. An apartment complex has come up where the playground used to be; but my love for street food remains.
Street food, for me, is all about food that keeps me fuelled when I’m on the move — whether during my student days, during work, or even while on a holiday. It is easy on the pocket and if you stop at a place that seems crowded, you can be assured of high quality and taste. A fine-dining restaurant could never replicate the flavours of a street-side joint, just as your favourite tuck shop couldn’t possibly use premium ingredients or slow-cooking techniques.
Here are some street food joints that I’ve stumbled across during my travels that left a lasting impression on me.
The author is a food writer and blogger. He recently released his book, The Travelling Belly
Kusum Rolls
Park Street, Kolkata
No visit to Kolkata is complete without phuchkas and rolls. If it’s tangy and spicy phuchkas I want, then I go to the folks at Lindsay Street or near Dakshinapan in South Kolkata. Preference for roll shops varies across people in Kolkata. I usually head to Kusum’s at Park Street; it is centrally located and easily accessible. I frequented the place as a college student and find that the quality has remained consistent. The shop is usually pretty crowded, with a mix of office-goers and college folks, so be prepared to wait a while. They have now opened an outlet at the airport; though the food is priced higher there. My suggestion: request them to fry the onions, as the caramelised taste adds to the flavour of the dish. Also if it’s a chicken or mutton roll that you choose to have, then skip the sauces and just opt for some lime juice and green chillies; it’s the perfect way to savour the taste of the kebabs.
Sai Balaji
Bandra, Mumbai
Bengaluru, Karnataka: 13/03/2016: Masala Dosa.
Photo: Sampath Kumar G P
I discovered this eatery opposite Guru Nanak Hospital when I was working at a market research agency in the neighbourhood. Open from morning to lunch, Sai Balaji is run by a Tamil family. With their steaming hot idlis, crunchy medhu vadas and crisp dosas, they are rather popular. I have never seen them have a slow day. The dosas, sambar and chutneys they serve are markedly different from those served at Udupi restaurants. For instance, the Sai Balaji sambar is tangy and spicy when compared to the sweetish variant served at a generic Udupi joint. Idlis here are smaller in size, but soft and fluffy. The dosas too, according to me, are slightly thicker and more nuanced in texture. If you happen to swing by this place, you might find that the moustachioed gentleman at the stall looks familiar. He is on the cover of my book.
Veena Stores
Malleswaram, Bengaluru
COIMBATORE, TAMILNADU, 19/04/2014: Idly, Hot Vada, on display, in Coimbatore, Tamilnadu.
PHOTO: S. SIVA SARAVANAN
I was once staying at a luxury hotel in Malleswaram, an area which is referred to as ‘old Bangalore’ by locals. Armed with a list of recommendations from Bengaluru-based food bloggers, I decided to head out for breakfast after I checked into the hotel. My first stop was at Veena Stores, where you can choose from a variety of freshly-made tiffin items; the street is your dining area. Mornings are rather busy here, with a large crowd rattling off orders. Their idlis and medhu vadas are a delight and worth the slightly higher price. I also tried their puliyogare, tamarind-infused rice interspersed with fried peanuts, that I really enjoyed. The eatery offers a takeaway service, but eating it hot off the stove surrounded by smiling foodies is something special.
Ramesh’s Bhelpuri
Charminar, Hyderabad
An upscale and trendy version of Bhelpuri, a tangy and savoury vegan and vegetarian appetizer, chaat, or snack food served in a grey bowl on a dark wood table. Made with puffed rice, sev, chat masala, tamarind, pomegranate, tomato, onion, lime and mint. Originated in Bombay (Mumbai), India.
I stumbled across Ramesh’s bhelpuri cart while out on a biryani hunt in Hyderabad a few years ago. At the time, I was looking for Shadab restaurant near the Charminar area, when I came across a gentleman with a cart selling bhel. He called out to me, asking me to try his bhel. Having lived in Mumbai and Kolkata, both cities that are are known for bhelpuri and jhalmuri, I wasn’t too keen on trying this version; besides I wanted to save my appetite for the biryani. “Try it,” he urged, “don’t pay me if you don’t like it.” Impressed by his confidence, I gave it a shot and watched as he mixed an assortment of peanuts, namkeen, finely-chopped red onions, tomatoes, rock salt and lime juice with the bhel (rice crisps). The resulting concoction turned out to be one of the best I’ve had in terms of balance of flavours and textures. Before I knew it, I’d polished off the whole thing. While I did have the mutton biryani at Shadab, which was superb, it was Ramesh’s bhel that I remember fondly when I recall my trip to Hyderabad.
Annai Fish Fry
Elliot’s Beach, Chennai
Chennai-based food writer, Amit Patnaik, promised me a very unique experience during my last trip to Chennai. True to his word, he took me to Elliot’s Beach in Besant Nagar one evening. We made a beeline towards the several stalls that sold freshly-fried seafood. Our pick that evening was Annai fish fry — we chose portions of red snapper, prawns and baby lobster. A lady at the stall proceeded to fry these with her own mix of spices. Each dish tasted different in terms of spicing and was seasoned perfectly; what I liked was that the fish was fresh and flavourful. While the food was pretty inexpensive, I wished they used better oil. Sitting on the beach and enjoying fresh seafood was the beginning of a series of eating experiences in Chennai that made me realise that the city had a lot more to offer apart from the usual idlis and dosas.
