Little town of Obidos on the Silver Coast
Geraniums hang in cluster over the balconies,
their fuzzy red paws intent
on climbing down, as this
century's only Obidos invasion.
Queen Leonor owned this town
and her forgotten whispers
pry open our dreams.
As I lie in your arms I hear
the irregular clip-clop of footsteps
on the cobbled street. Two sets
of church bells chime the hour.
For brief days we hide
in calmness as though the world
were not beating our arched gates.
(Eleanore Schonmaier, Treading Fast Rivers)
No visit to Portugal is complete without a stop by the wispy little white-washed town of Obidos. Perched high up in the hills, this “fortified city” dates back to Roman times and is located 80 km north of Lisbon by the coast.
Visitors head to this exquisite destination for different reasons — for a holiday in the mild sunshine, blue skies and mountain air, or to step back in time exploring the quaint artistic history and culture of the place. Some to raise, swirl glasses of the region's unique, intriguing wines such as Ginja.
Just 15 minutes away from the hilltop is a haven for honeymooners. A large tidal lagoon resort, where wave-washed white sand beaches beckon, sometimes with moonlight. Yachting enthusiasts, swimmers, sunbathers, windsurfers and whole families revel in the water. Party animals pull up here for weekend parties and musical performances — a time when local musicians and fishermen pull out all the stops for a feast of flavours and sounds — catch of the day and timeless melodies, and rocking hits of the day.
Chocolate fair
Also commonly seen here are people lugging tennis raquets or golf clubs and heading for a massive sporting complex near by — the 600-acre Praia D'el Rey club, open to guests. The large crowds though are generally seasonal, and can be seen ascending the magical maze of cobbled streets for the annual chocolate fair.
With so much to do and see, and so little time, we hurried out on a sunny September day. With a helpful driver cum guide, Senhor Antonio and a Volvo we made the scenic drive and pulled up at the spectacular 18th Century tiled gate, Porta da Vila. From there we went by foot.
Ascending the winding cobblestone lane, we quickly realised why this gated community is like no other. This was fairytale setting. Something out of the romances of medieval times.
Inside the limestone and marble walled tiny city is a world far removed from the cyber-frenzy, hustle and bustle of the 21st Century. Our narrow path Rua Direita, the main street, led us through a relaxed and calm city of unbelievable charm and inexplicable beauty. At each step, specially in the bylanes, were marks of different cultures and civilizations — Roman, Visigoth, Moor. Whitewashed houses gleamed in the sunlight. Flowers and lush foliage covered terraces. Burnt-orange terra cotta roofs, Gothic doorways and unusual archways and entrances overflowed with bougainvillea, morning glories and geraniums. The enchanting scent of flowers lingered in the air. Nearby, from behind doors, emanated fado singing accompanied by piano and guitars — bringing to mind the sea, nostalgia — of partings, grief as also joy, of reunions, hope.
In what was increasingly becoming a “living museum”, central Obidos had a gorgeous square with a beautiful fountain, a 15{+t}{+h} Century wooden framework on a post formerly used for punishment but now decorated with the arms of Queen Leonor and covered by fishing net, and the Santa Maria Church. It was in this church in 1444, that a famous child marriage took place: the 10-year old King Afonso V married his eight-year-old cousin Isabel. Earlier, in 1282, the marriage of King Dinis with Isabella of Aragon was solemnised here. In each of these weddings, the bride was presented with the town and castle — a tradition maintained for hundreds of years. The only time of the year the high-walled city of 4,000 residents takes on a significantly different look is during the International Chocolate Festival. Held every March, this rollicking two-week affair attracts chocolate lovers from all over the world. There are chocolate displays, recipe contests, sculptures, fashions, and ops aplenty to yield to the temptation of sinful chocolate!
Our steep climb ended at a Manueline style castle. The old military hangout has been converted into Pousada de Óbidos, a guest house. There are awesome views of the surroundings from the ramparts of the fort — in the distance were windmills, green pastures, and endless green and lime-green stretches of vineyards wrapped around the hills. Immediately below us were age-old monuments, small shops selling local handicraft — traditional ceramics, wicker baskets, embroidery and woolen clothes. And not too far to the west was the Atlantic.
Much of this scenery was the same during the Roman rule. A time when this westernmost point was the last frontier of the “Old World”, prompting many a Roman to “drink life to the lees”. Recent excavations point to exquisite architecture — forum, baths, gardens and other structures giving an idea of where these spirited celebrations of life took place!
Due to its strategic location along the coast, the city became a thriving trading port and a commercial hub. But in the 16th Century, large deposits of silt at the river delta formed and blocked the harbour area. This development ended the maritime trade and much of the frenetic commercial activity. With that Obidos metamorphosed into a quiet holiday destination among the Portuguese royalty… and now, has opened its doors to the world.
Public buses
Being close to Lisbon, and located on the main A8 highway, Obidos attracts many day-trippers both independent and organised tour participant in the high summer season. Public buses operate from Lisbon's Campo Grande, costing six Euros per head.
Discerning holiday makers, who arrive in the slack period, get the benefit of inexpensive accommodation or even villas with swimming pools, gardens and easy access to restaurants and local attractions. Besides the world heritage site is the Costa de Prata or Silver Coast with its large stretches of undiscovered beauty — stunning beaches, natural beauty and golf courses, tennis, surfing and other sporting facilities … making it a great getaway.
