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Updated: October 30, 2009 19:01 IST

On neon wings

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FLY BY: A wing-sleeve dress from Gaurav Gupta’s Spring/ Summer 2010 collection Photo: R.V. Moorthy
The Hindu
FLY BY: A wing-sleeve dress from Gaurav Gupta’s Spring/ Summer 2010 collection Photo: R.V. Moorthy

Gaurav Gupta’s show rode on flights of fancy at Wills Lifestyle India Fashion Week

Gaurav Gupta again managed to create a flutter, this time literally. Gupta’s Spring/Summer 2010 collection, which was showcased at the Wills Lifestyle India Fashion Week (WIFW), was based on the flight of birds.

This manifested itself in the form of bird-print and winged dresses, feathered headgear and what not. A breezy collection, it came up with some fun and wearable separates and occasionally pieces that made for more drama than practicality.

“The whole concept behind the collection came up during a talk we were having. It’s mostly about birds in flight, also going into a bit of surrealism,” said the designer at the end of the show.

Models took to the hummingbird-patterned ramp hopping timidly, almost sparrow-like. Chiffon, the predominant fabric, appeared in the form of pleated and mono-sleeve dresses and anti-fits, even stockings.

“We’ve been using a lot of jersey so far, so we wanted to move forward,” explained the designer about the choice of chiffon as central fabric.

Checks and birds

Maths checks were used on stockings that were paired with every dress, occasionally hot pink chiffon tops and also cotton silk fold skirts.

On the unusual pairing of prints, Gupta said, “I love maths checks. I love bird prints. There’s no other reason.” Besides digital bird prints, chiefly the hummingbird on neon green chiffon, the bird theme was also reflected in design elements like wing shoulders, neck wings and wing sleeves.

In the stockings again, twisted drapes created an unusual hand-tucked effect. To provide the transparent fleeting effect of birds in motion, tulle was used — as in a structured draped dress, neon pink bubble fold dress, hot pink dress-on-dress, shimmer dresses or the neon green insect-wing structured zipper dress. Layering, a Gaurav Gupta staple, added to the theme.

The background score featured international dance music remixed by Arjun Vagale of Jalebee Cartel.

Crystallized Swarovski Elements came in the form of shoulder neckpieces and neckline embellishment. Is that towards removing the necessity of separate accessorisation?

“Jewellery is a personal choice. We’ve also made separate neckpieces along with the clothing. But I am averse to this whole idea of wearing too much jewellery that’s been going on in India for a very long time,” he says.

Gupta, however, sounds a tad embarrassed about the time the collection took to put together – too short, he feels. “Well… it took me a month. It should have taken me six.”

And, he’s finally set to open a flagship store at Emporio in Vasant Kunj.


Blow haute, blow cool November 2, 2009

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