Manipur’s verdant green mountains, its unique tradition of Nata Sankirtana, Raas Leela, its picturesque lake Loktak with floating islands can get a little overwhelming for a city soul. But as you explore one of the seven sisters of the North East, another facet of its rich history, Second World War and a deep relationship with Indian Independence Movement emerge. Here are some some stories about its extraordinary past through some historical sites.
INA Museum, Moirang
About 45 kms from Imphal is a small town - Moirang which recorded much action in regard to India’s freedom struggle. Indian National Army Museum in Moirang is where the tricolour was first unhurled on Indian soil ever on April 14, 1944. Helmed by Subhash Chandra Bose, this also happens to be the place where INA formed the first provisional government of Free India (Azad Hind). Some 300 images of INA, formation of the Independent India’s government in Singapore, Rani Jhansi Regiment and a collection of artefacts - donated, excavated, relate the story of this epic struggle. If in one picture INA troops can be seen marching through Singapore, in another Subhash Chandra Bose has been captured in a meeting with Rash Behari Bose, (founder of INA), in Tokyo. The last available image of Subhash Chandra Bose alighting the plane at Saigon airport and the cabinet of Azad Hind Fauj with Dr. Lakshmi Sahgal as its Minister of Women’s Affairs are the other highlights of the collection.
Its assortment of artefacts include hand grenades, helmets of Japanese soldiers, unreleased stamps of Azad Hind Fauj, mortars and weapons. According to Mrinashree Mairembram, the curator of Museum, a lot of Japanese war veterans and their families visit the museum. “Japanese are very good with details. They know where the soldiers were buried and when they would come and get the site excavated, there would appear a whole lot of war-related stuff. In 1975 Lieutenant General Iwaichi Fujiwara, came to Moirang. A Japanese intelligence officer in the Japanese army during the Second World War, he had helped INA in its resistance to the British. Fujiwara got a few sites excavated and we found so many objects there,” says Mrinashree, adding that President Ramnath Kovind’s visit to the museum in 2017 spread much-needed awareness about it. The museum attracts lots of visitors from Japan and West Bengal in India and the annual Sangai Festival held in November. “But this time, we didn’t get many. I think people go to Keibul Lamjao National Park to see Sangai deer, Loktak Lake so we get very niche visitors.”
Though the museum which is maintained by Ministry of Art and Culture, is now planning expansion of its exhibits on second floor with more 3D objects, ex-army person Nepram Dwijamani says, government needs to pay more attention to the heritage site. "I have been voluntarily working as a tour guide for the visitors and also do a lot of other stuff in the museum since 2001, without any salary. I have written to the authorities so many times but to no avail," rues Dwijamani
Another iconic structure located quite close to the museum is the INA Headquarters. The structure is neglected and is a private house.
Red Hill
On your way to Moirang, you come across a hillock which appears nondescript till you see the peace memorial called The Red Hill or Lotpaching; it’s here that the the Japanese Imperial Army fought the British from May 21-29, 1944. Called the Battle of Imphal, the Japanese fought a fierce battle against the Allies and lost badly. While Indian Army assisted the British, the Japanese were being helped by INA.
After the bloody battle, a lot of Japanese soldiers as they were retreating to Burma, died due to sickness and injuries.
Today a minimalistic peace memorial - concrete walls, three sandstone blocks symbolising the Japanese, Indian and the British soldiers commemorating the deceased Japanese soldiers has been built by the Japanese Government. A rusty cannon is the only physical reminder of the battle.
Kangla Fort
A place which has been witness to the evolution of Manipur. Kangla was where the royal seat was established by Pakhangba in 33 AD. After that the place functioned as the capital for several Manipuri kings. A dark period in the history of Manipur ensued during the rule of Burmese kings. And finally it was Nara Singh who is believed to have shifted the capital back to Kangla in 1844 AD.
The mighty king astride a horse and brandishing a sword welcomes you at the entrance. A number of shrines, graves, stone inscription, a sacred pond Marshal General Slim's Cottage, Sir Akbar Hydri's tomb and not to forget the life-size figures of mythical creature of Kangla-Sha, dot the complex. The original temple of Shree Govindaji dedicated to Lord Krishna and Radha, was originally built in 1846 AD during the rule of Nara Singh but it was severely damaged during the earthquake after which King Chandrakirti, reconstructed the temple in its original form.
You get a glimpse into the history of Manipur through a guided tour by trained women guides (as part of special initiative launched by Government of Manipur). They take you around in battery operated vehicles. Shashikanta Sharma of Kangla Fort Board says that these initiatives - opening of its Western Gate, introduction of bicycle, battery operated vehicles and Archaeological Museum, is attracting more visitors. In 2018, the number of footfalls recorded so far is two lakh.
Inside the Kangla Museum are displayed the paintings of the rulers - Rajshri Bhagyachandra, Maharaja Chandrakirti, Jubaraj Tikendrajit etc., significant scenes from British rule and related objects.
Kangla Fort remained occupied by the British till 1947 and after they left, the fort housed Assam Rifles. In 2004, then Prime Minister Manmohan Singh visited Kangla Fort and handed it over to the State Government of Manipur.
Even that scene has been depicted in a relief. It was in front of Kangla Fort that 12 Imas (mothers) stripped and protested against the rape and murder of Thangjam Manorama allegedly by the soldiers of Assam Rifles.
With its well-manicured gardens, impeccably maintained sites and a newly launched light and sound show, today Kangla Fort revamped by Kangla Development Board, is a picture of peace today. During the recently concluded Sangai Festival, Kangla was one of the venues for Sangai Photo Festival showcasing rare pictures by well-known anthropologist Ursula Graham Bower, photographs by World Press Photo winner Altaf Qadri and works by members of different photography clubs of Manipur.
“To every Manipuri, Kangla is not just a historical site but it is place of religious, cultural and historical importance. To us, it is very sacred and we believe that Kangla is the centre of the cosmology of the entire Universe. Kangla is the only capital city of a kingdom which was ruled by a single dynasty (i.e. Ningthouja) for almost 2000 years in a more or less continuous manner from 33 CE upto 1891 CE. This is not to be found in any part of a world,” says Shashikanta Sharma of Kangla Fort Board.
Imphal War Cemetery
Some 1600 Commonwealth soldiers rest in peace at Imphal War Cemetery maintained by Commonwealth War Graves Commission. Tended to by Samu Singh for the last 29 years, it gets lot of foreign tourists especially the family members of the deceased soldiers.
The youngest among them all was a 17 year-old Indian soldier whose tombstone was inscribed “Om Bhagvate Namah - The Hindu Soldier of the Indian Army is honoured here. ASR/10289 Sepoy NAGA. Royal Indian Army Service Corps 12th September 1945 Age 17.
There are three other Indian soldiers and lone nurse ‘Edith Florence Turner’ of Auxiliary Nursing Service, again an Indian who are buried here.
Other significant sites
Imphal War Museum
Three friends Angamba Arambam, Yumnam Rajeshwar and Joseph Longjam's collection of the second World War relics can be seen at Imphal War Museum. The idea is to preserve the preserve the objects related to the battles of second world war fought on the Manipuri turf.
Khongjom War Memorial, Thoubal
Considered the greatest battle of Anglo-Manipuri War, warriors like Paona Brajabashi and others fought the British till their last breath against the British.
