At least three different WhatsApp chat groups I belong to went into overdrive over the Celine runway show last Friday, during the Spring 2019 Paris Fashion Week. [French designer] Hedi Slimane ‘blew up’ the storied brand beloved of thinking women everywhere, screamed a provocative Washington Post headline. My phone imploded soon after. Friends in New York, London and Mumbai were aghast, saying how much they hated the presentation. They cited Tim Blanks, editor at large at Business of Fashion, who eloquently suggested that Slimane had brought a “gust of toxic masculinity” to the brand.
Last December, when Phoebe Philo announced she was leaving Celine after 10 years, everyone around me had said that we had better buy whatever was available of her last collection. And they did, as did I, when I scooped up a pair of wide legged yellow pants (on sale!) a few months ago.
Then, as I reflected on the hand wringing amongst my friends (and the global fashion press), I realised that we skewed older, and perhaps had different tastes from millennials. After all, a recent survey of 3,000 people across China, Europe and the US by UBS Bank found that 18- to 35-year-olds contributed 85% growth in the luxury market in 2017, and will make up close to half of all such spending in seven years. Slimane had success at both YSL and Dior Homme, so why not parlay that into Celine? Let’s see how the junior set react.
One thing I do know is that this lot didn’t live through the 1980s, a decade experiencing a major fashion moment. I did, and even though I may not re-embrace shoulder pads or perms, I am beyond thrilled that the accessories — big earrings, bold necklaces and colourful make-up — are back in vogue. In 1989, I designed my own dress for our annual high school dance: a black taffeta and shiny orange pouf dress inspired by Christian Lacroix.
Reminiscing about high school took a toll on my face, which decided it had to rewind to the 1980s too. I broke out in awful acne. Was it a message that I should feel sympathy for my almost teenage son and also sport oily skin? No, even motherhood has its limits. I scheduled a Sunday emergency dermatological appointment for immediate intervention. The good doctor told me it was a case of stress and hormones, and that I should relax. But how to do that when I have a mad case of nerves as the book I co-authored is about to hit the stands? What if everyone hates it? Or worse... what if no one buys it?
Heeding the doctor’s advice, I went to the recently-opened Jiva Spa at the Taj hotel in Colaba. There, enveloped in serenity (it boggles the mind that a bustling neighbourhood surrounds it), I had the most relaxing massage and felt renewed. In fact, so renewed that I braved the five-minute walk from the hotel to Nimish Shah’s sample sale for his label Shift, which I adore. He immediately set about rifling through the racks and found me a few lovely numbers. As I was going through the wares, Ms Gorgeous Pout and Ms Restrained Restaurateur walked in, one after another in quick succession. They, too, adore Shift, an understated brand of high quality separates and dresses for an on-the-go woman. And at 50% off, we were all thrilled with our finds.
Just as I was leaving, WhatsApp buzzed yet again. This time it was the handbag and accessories department of the auction house Christie’s, which was having its sale in Hong Kong of vintage Hermes, Chanel and Louis Vuitton. I refrained from clicking on the link, which would be filled with photographs of exotic, diamond-studded bags. Last year, a Hermes Birkin with gold hardware and diamonds sold for ₹2.7 crore, proving that high-end spending for certain looks isn’t on the down swing. Slimane, with his insouciant, millennial-friendly designs, must be betting precisely on that.
This fortnightly column tracks the indulgent pursuits of the one-percenters.
