Weaving of Bathukamma saris has come to a standstill following the indefinite strike launched by the powerloom weavers in Sircilla on Monday demanding a wage hike.
For the past two years, the State government had been placing orders for Bathukamma saris for distribution to below poverty line (BPL) women during Dasara and provided employment to the distressed weavers of the textile town.
Accordingly, this year, orders were placed for 96 lakh saris worth ₹300 crore measuring around 6.3 crore metres in length.
New designs, old rate
Compared to the previous orders, this time the government had ordered different varieties of saris with zari border and designs in pallu, and over 100 colours to make them attractive for the women. With the new designs, weavers are able to operate just six looms and produce 20 metres, against the earlier eight powerlooms at a time and 30 metres of saris daily.
Due to decline in production, the weavers’ wages had come down from ₹18,000 per month to ₹12,000 per month due to the new design sarees. Last year, the government had paid ₹4.25 paise per metre.
This year too, same rates were being paid in spite of the new designs that are consuming more time resulting in less production.
For instance, the weavers are taking at least two-and-half hours for weaving a zari border and designs in pallu for the saris.
The powerloom weavers trade unions affiliated to the AITUC and CITU have served the strike notice on the government and owners of the powerlooms. When there was no response, they were forced to go on strike. They had been staging dharnas and forming human chains to lodge their protest demanding the government to address their problems.
Demand hike
“We were happy that the government had given us employment throughout the year by placing bulk orders for weaving saris, school uniforms,” AITUC leader Samalla Mallesham said.
However, the rates for weaving Bathukamma saris were fixed two years ago at ₹4.25 paise per metre.
Now, the designs have changed and it is taking more time to weave a sari and the weaver is losing his wages. “Hence, we are urging the government to increase the rate to ₹6 per metre, and if increased by 0.50 paise per metre also, we will be happy,” he maintained.
In the meantime, officials said they had informed the same to the government and are waiting for its response.
