Indian handmade weaves make a tapestry of time

Displayed at Victoria & Albert Museum in London, the textiles include earliest known fragments and contemporary styles which vary widely in imagery and techniques

October 01, 2015 11:56 pm | Updated October 02, 2015 10:09 am IST - London:

LONDON, ENGLAND - SEPTEMBER 30:  A visitor walks past a floor spread hanging during the press preview of 'The Fabric of India' exhibition at the Victoria and Albert Museum, on September 30, 2015 in London, England. The giant 'summer carpet' with poppy designs was created for people to sit on outside and is typical of time the Mughal Emperor Shah Jahan reigned form 1628-1658.  The exhibition which forms part of the V&A India festival, runs at the museum until January 10, 2016.  (Photo by Dan Kitwood/Getty Images)

LONDON, ENGLAND - SEPTEMBER 30: A visitor walks past a floor spread hanging during the press preview of 'The Fabric of India' exhibition at the Victoria and Albert Museum, on September 30, 2015 in London, England. The giant 'summer carpet' with poppy designs was created for people to sit on outside and is typical of time the Mughal Emperor Shah Jahan reigned form 1628-1658. The exhibition which forms part of the V&A India festival, runs at the museum until January 10, 2016. (Photo by Dan Kitwood/Getty Images)

Indian handmade textiles, from the earliest known fragments to contemporary styles, have been put on display here at the world-famous Victoria & Albert (V&A) Museum as part of the ongoing “India Festival”.

“The Fabric of India” is the first exhibition to explore Indian textiles and forms the centrepiece of the festival.

“This was a tremendous task and we looked at it from a historic perspective and tried to make it relevant today. There is a vague chronology to give it a sense of history but the broad divisions reflect the technical mastery and creativity of Indian textiles,” Divia Patel, co-curator of the exhibition, says.

The exhibition offers an introduction to the raw materials and processes of making cloth by hand.

Displays of the basic fibres of silk, cotton and wool illustrate the importance of India’s natural resources to its textile-making traditions and two-thirds of the exhibits are from the V&A’s own collections. The remaining have been borrowed from museums and private collections in India, the U.S. and France.

The opening section shows fabrics dyed using natural materials such as pomegranate and indigo and the complex techniques of block printing, weaving and embroidery across the ages, together creating a visual compendium of India’s astonishingly diverse array of fabrics.

The highlights spread from muslin embroidered with glittering green beetle wings and a vast wall hanging with appliqué designs of elephants and geometrical patterns to a boy’s jacket densely embroidered with brightly coloured silk thread and mirrors.

Wealth, power and religious devotion are all expressed through textiles, and the exhibition examines how fabrics were used in courtly and spiritual life. Fabrics created for temples and shrines vary widely in imagery and techniques, depending on the religious context, level of patronage and region of production.

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