With the number of restaurants having cropped up in the city in the past decade, few restaurants can boast of as loyal clientele as that of Gaylord in Churchgate.
The establishment, part of the Kwality Group, was founded by the late P.L. Lamba, from Delhim along with his then partner, Iqbal Singh Ghai. Tomorrow, Gaylord turns 60.
One look at the customers and it’s evident they’re all at ease, most of them seated at their favourite tables, which restaurant manager Robert Quadros has meticulously ensured is vacant when they arrive.
And then you have two smiling faces that are almost the mascots of Gaylord: 89-year-old CEO A.N. Malhotra, who has been part of the restaurant since its inception in 1956, and general manager Noel D’Souza, who joined as F&B controller and has been here for the past 33 years. “Since 1956, a lot of things have changed. In the beginning, there was no mezzanine and we had a dance floor where we conducted jam sessions,” Malhotra says. “Gaylord was the talk of the town with the who’s who of Bollywood frequenting it. With time, till date, the USP of Gaylord is that it has stayed relevant.” Pointing to a corner table where musical duo Shankar-Jaikishan sat, the CEO recollects, Jaikishan would throw a fit if it was occupied when he walked in. It was his table.”
Glancing at Malhotra, D’Souza beams with excitement. “Can you believe Mr. Malhotra is 89 years old, and we complete 60 years this week? We have come a long way,” he says, confessing that every thought of leaving for greener pastures were dismissed, all thanks to the loyalty of his employers.
“I used to be part of the daily operations, and even handled the bread factory we had launched in Rabale for a few years,” says the general manager. “I helped set up all the operations. One thing that ensures our food quality is intact is training a second string of backup chefs who have learnt from the head chefs. Chefs leave, but that doesn’t affect our food.”
Every morning, D’Souza conducts a routine round in the kitchen to check the quality of raw materials and ingredients. He then goes through the reservation list to check for regulars and vets the outdoor party preparation list too.
Helping D’Souza keep the restaurant functioning smoothly is 54-year-old Quadros, who mans the reservation desk and is in charge of seating the guests. “Most of our customers are faces we have been seeing for years over,” says the manager. “They come with their families now, and the restaurant becomes privy to generations to come. On birthdays and special occasions, I make it a point to have a cake and flowers for them, just to make them feel at home.”
Kitchen confidential
Currently, three chefs, Mangesh Pawar (tandoor), Francis Gomes (Continental) and Virender Batwa (Indian) run the kitchen at Gaylord. “We work as a team, and that is our strength,” says Batwa, the oldest member of the squad. While the Indian favourites — paneer makhanwala, murg makhani — and the Continentalau gratincontinue to be bestsellers, Continental chef Gomes, has added beer batter fries and vegetarian pasta in the past four years.
Francis happens to be the son of late chef Gilbert Gomes, who played an important role in developing the Gaylord menu in the 80s and took forward the restaurant’s legacy with Continental cuisine for about 25 years.
Francis fondly recollects advice his father gave: “He told me that it is not always necessary to stick to the menu. If a customer makes a special request, you must meet it. So, we all follow that rule, as long as the right ingredients are available. Nobody should walk out hungry.” But Continental cuisine has undergone a sea change in his opinion. “It is not authentic anymore and recipes have been tweaked with the addition of spices to suit palates. Across the world, it is tough to find authentic Continental cuisine, which is usually bland and spiced only with herbs.”
The first chef to lead Indian cuisine at Gaylord was Sundarmani from North India and for Continental fare, they had chef Rozario from Kolkata. Both trained junior chefs, and the tradition has been passed on ever since. Malhotra adds, “Did you know we also had a Chinese station, and a samosa-pakoda department? Due to the rush, we closed it down.”
As the anniversary date approaches the excitement is palpable. Even the servers and floor staff seem enthused. But the restaurant continues to wear its elegant, English look with a dignified grace.
“We have adapted with the times, and that has made us 60 years younger,” says Malhotra before heading back to work.
The author is a freelance writer
Gaylord, Churchgate, 9.30 a.m. to 11.30 p.m., Phone: 22821259.
