Have we gatecrashed a Punjabi wedding? That’s the first thought that crosses our mind when we enter Dhaba by Claridges. Why? Because there’s bhangra in progress (by a bunch of staff members), an air of festivity, and the unmistakable aroma of butter chicken. While some of the diners watch with their mouths stuffed, the others are too busy to look up from their kulchas.
The new Dhaba by Claridges, that recently opened in Ispahani Centre, grabs eyeballs with its vividly-quirky interiors. There’s a large red truck on level two that has already found itself in a hundred photographs on social media. Admittedly, it is an amazing selfie spot. On the rear of the truck are two chaarpais and a table, in case one wishes to dine inside. All the tables are inspired by patterns found on these hefty load-carrying vehicles. Ceramic and China-ware make way for steel plates and utensils here, and even the hand wash area has two steel buckets, that serve as basins. The walls have movie posters, firki art and chai glasses hang from ceilings as lights.
There’s an empty table next to the truck, where regular chairs are replaced with four cane swings. Lounging in them, we go through the menu that lists quite a few dhaba staples.
To begin with, there’s lassi, thandai, ganne ka ras, cold coffee and an Oreo shake as well — talk about dhabas getting trendy! Sadly, the gorgeously-yellow aam lassi is disappointing. It’s a little too sour and the flavour of mango is almost non-existent.
Things get better with the tandoori tawa aloo that’s everybody’s favourite. It’s a plateful of crispy, golden-fried slices of potato topped with sweet tamarind chutney and onions, and I can hear the lovely crunch every time I bite into one. The galouti kebab is just as good and melts in your mouth. We are off to a good start with the appetisers, and the main course looks promising.
What happens when regular butter chicken undergoes a makeover with lots of foundation? You get chitta butter chicken, in a white gravy rich with curd and cheese.
The generously-sized chicken pieces are tender and cooked in the tandoor before being cooked in the gravy. Delicious yes, but if you’re watching your waistline, do yourself a favour and look away from it.
This dish sure gives balti meat, the signature dish of the dhaba, a run for its money. Served in a small steel bucket, the juicy pieces of mutton in balti meat are full of flavour, but the gravy has an overpowering taste of spices. Also a word of caution: this is something you do not want to order on a date. Those massive lamb shanks aren’t the easiest to deal with, and there’s no glamorous way of enjoying them. Get your hands dirty, and keep a napkin handy.
The garlic naan is a perfect match with the accompaniments, and it gleams in all its buttery glory. And just like a superstar makes his entry at the end, the dal makhni arrives with a swagger.
Rich, creamy and flavourful, this, clearly, is the winner on the menu. Close your eyes, take a bite and you’ll feel like you’re on the Ludhiana-Amritsar highway. It helps that Mika Singh is playing in the background.
To end the meal, we are served rabri in an earthen bowl. Made with milk that’s been boiled for an hour-and-a-half, it has a thick consistency. Drizzled with pistachios, it’s perfectly sweetened. And, since there aren’t any Patiala pegs served here, perhaps this could be your ‘one for the road’.
