75 years of Bengaluru's famed benne masala dose

Vidyarthi Bhavan in Basavanagudi has stood the test of time

May 29, 2018 12:58 am | Updated 03:26 pm IST

 The management keeps track of the number of customers each day through a  dose lekka .

The management keeps track of the number of customers each day through a dose lekka .

What started as a modest eatery for students has, over the years, become a landmark of sorts. Vidyarthi Bhavan in Basavanagudi has come a long way since it was established in 1943. This year, as it turns 75, the restaurant has managed to stand the test of time, the changing palates of Bengalureans, and the onslaught of newcomers in the food and beverages space offering everything from Mediterranean to Vietnamese cuisine, with its staple six offerings.

To this day, the benne masala dose is the top seller. In fact, the management keeps track of the number of customers each day through a dose lekka. The number is around 1,250 on a weekday, and up to 2,200 per day on a weekend. The other items are poori-saagu , khara bath and kesari bath , idli-sambar , uppittu and rave vade .

The menu has more or less remained the same over the years. One item that disappeared, said Arun Adiga, managing partner, Vidyarthi Bhavan, was the gulab jamun (not in the regular round shape) after the chef who made it from scratch passed away in the 1980s.

 The  benne masala dose  remains the top seller.

The benne masala dose remains the top seller.

 

Changes over the years

The timings have been extended only slightly, closing at 8 p.m. now instead of 7.30 p.m., on popular demand. There are no plans to extend this further though, as the restaurant does not offer meals. The management pointed out that it will have implications on the shift timings of the 28 employees.

The rates, though, have seen a huge change: from ₹1 in the 1980s to ₹46 for a dosa now. This, Mr. Adiga said, was proportional to other overheads.

Their customer base has expanded. “Bengaluru has changed. In the 1940s, when Vidyarthi Bhavan was started, people were conservative about eating out. People who came here were students and people who came to Bengaluru. Now, it is the other way round. People barely cook at home and eating out is the norm. People will search for new restaurants. But, unless you maintain quality, there will not be repeat customers,” he said.

 The timings have been changed only slightly.

The timings have been changed only slightly.

 

Flip side of popularity

From being an adda of intellectuals, writers and famous personalities, including the likes of Rajnikanth — who apparently comes in disguise, Masti Venkatesh Iyengar, D.V. Gundappa, C. Ashwath and Nissar Ahmed, to becoming one of the must-go destinations for anyone who lives in or is exploring Bengaluru, publicity through media, particularly social media, has expanded its popularity beyond its regular circles and south Bengaluru. But, there is a flip side.

Mr. Adiga said some customers come in with high expectations, and end up disappointed with the way things are, be it the building (the management has brought in some changes, yet kept it like its old self), the fact that they may have to share a table with strangers, or if they are not blown away by the taste of the food.

“Some people ask for the menu. They are disappointed when we tell them that we have only six items to offer. In other cases, even before they have paid the bill, they have reviewed the food on social media and branded it good or bad. But we can’t satisfy everyone, though we try to satisfy at least 90% of the customers,” he said.

 

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