In Old Delhi, ‘beef means buffalo meat’

Each owner says with all the assuring that they do not sell cow meat, that their business is driven either by buffalo meat or chicken or goat.

October 30, 2015 12:00 am | Updated 08:12 am IST

Buffalo meat being sold in Old Delhi on Thursday. Photo: Sushil Kumar Verma

Buffalo meat being sold in Old Delhi on Thursday. Photo: Sushil Kumar Verma

Amidst the growing hate crimes against the Muslims over beef consumption has led the Shahi Imam of New Delhi to reconcile with the idea of giving up cow meat altogether. "If giving up cow meat is what it takes, then we are ready,” he said.

The fear psychosis can be felt in old Delhi’s restaurants, barbecue kiosks, and butcher shops. Each owner says with all the assuring that they do not sell cow meat, that their business is driven either by buffalo meat or chicken or goat.

“Here, beef means buffalo meat,” they immediately clarify in their defence. Though they feel secure as Jama Masjid is a predominantly Muslim area and in case something on the lines of Kerala House or, worse, Dadri lynching, happens, they know it will be in control.

Known as ‘bade ka gosht’, buffalo meat in Jama Masjid is mostly used for ‘Nihari’ and ‘Paaya’, typically winter season delicacies. Small takeaway joints lining the Matia Mahal come alive in the evening and with Deghs of Nihari , Paaya , Qorma and Biryani kept on the low-simmered stoves in the front and the owner sitting behind them. Rehmanullah hotel, a small 30 square feet shop enough for Mohammed Qadir to sit with four Deghs, sells bade ki Nihari and Qorma (buffalo meat). “Buffalo meat is cheaper than goat meat.”

When asked about cow meat, he folds his hands, confusing the reporter to be a member of a religious group, and asks to leave. “We don’t sell cow meat. It’s buffalo meat. See it’s dark in colour and dry.” The reaction from almost all restaurant owners was similar, though some were sharp.

For more than five years now, cow meat is totally out from the Jama Masjid area. Earlier, there were few who would get it from Mewat area, Haryana, but there wasn't much demand. “In fact, Hindus would come looking for cow meat [to eat] than the Muslims,” said Ismail, owner of a small kebab shop. But the demand dwindled and procuring cow meat involved risk. After the slaughterhouses in Idgah, near Sadar Bazar, were closed and shifted to Gazipur, buffalo meat supply has also been affected. “To slaughter a buffalo you need more space than chicken and goat,” said Wahab, a butcher. Supplying meat to many restaurants in Delhi apart from old Delhi, he is in favour of beef ban. “If it hurts the sentiments of Hindus, cows shouldn’t be slaughtered in any part of the country. But it seems cow meat is just an excuse used to target a particular community.”

Next to Wahab’s shop is Mohammed Ismail’s makeshift kebab joint. Fanning the coals to keep them lighted, Mohammed Ismail questioned, “Why has beef become so sacred suddenly? People are killing each other for it.”

The Muslims, who are perceived to be traditional beef eaters, to shed this image counter it by referring to a common belief- ‘Cow’s meat is a disease while its milk is a cure’ - and attributing it to Hadith .

Hadith is a collection of traditions containing sayings of the prophet Muhammad which, with accounts of his daily practice and constitute the major source of guidance for Muslims apart from the Qoran. Mohammed Abrar of Lalu Kebabi claimed. “Even if I sell cow meat, people in the area will not like it.” Though Shahi Imam said that he hasn't read about the religious significance of the cow meat or the Hadith but he has heard about this belief from many. “We only want peace. At present, our country is heading towards a very dangerous situation. Muslims living in Hindu-dominant areas are very scared and this is leading to ghettoisation.”

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