Notes from Stockholm

The prolonged warm weather was such a rarity that Swedes headed out to the beaches in hordes

November 03, 2018 04:45 pm | Updated 04:45 pm IST

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Sweden has had unusual weather this year. It’s November, but the winter is not as harsh as it usually is, this time of year. Moreover, it was an unusually warm summer, with temperatures hovering in the 30s. Having seen fiercer Indian summers most of my life, this weather didn’t surprise me. But Sweden last experienced such a warm summer 260 years ago, which means that no Swede alive today has ever experienced such hot days.

As a result of the high temperatures, Sweden literally burnt. Forest fires raged across the country. Close to 20,000 hectares of forests burnt in the wildfires. Under-equipped, Sweden called for help from Italian, German, Norwegian, Danish, Polish and French firefighters, who promptly came to assist.

And there was little rainfall, which led to a drought. Given the water shortage, notices were sent out to people to avoid watering their plants. Most worryingly, Sweden’s highest peak, a glacier on the southern tip of the 2,106-metre-high Kebnekaise mountain, started to melt. Swedish scientists concluded in the middle of the summer that it’s no longer the nation’s tallest point, given that four metres of snow have melted away.

Staycation

However, there was a silver lining amidst all this heat. The prolonged warm weather was such a rarity that Swedes headed out to the beaches in hordes, holding on to their picnic baskets and popsicles. Gone were the vacation plans to the beaches of Greece and Turkey, replaced by ‘staycations’ in summer houses along the long Swedish coastline.

In Stockholm, the outdoor scene ramped up. Most evenings, live bands played in Kungsträdgården (centrally located royal gardens open to public) till late night. Outdoor cafes and pop-up stores selling gelato mushroomed, and cold brew gained favour with the locals. One such afternoon, I took out time to walk to the old town, Gamla Stan. As usual, it was crowded with tourists aimlessly wandering through this labyrinthine complex. The Royal Palace is in this part of the city, and tourists usually line up to get their pictures taken with the royal guards on duty. I felt for these guards who, surrounded by tourists in shorts and tees, were dressed in their full uniform, including thick leather shoes and a cap, Despite the heat, they maintained a stoic impression, marching by with an impassive look on their faces. Someone pass them a bottle of water, please!

Another wildfire that swept Sweden this year was the release of the Mamma Mia sequel, Mamma Mia! Here We Go Again . The movie halls were packed, filled with people from every generation. There was an almost festive environment inside the movie halls, with the audience singing along to the famous ABBA songs which form the fabric of the musical. Every single song had people clapping and singing and swaying.

Most Swedes have grown up listening to ABBA, which is, arguably, the most successful cultural export from Sweden. ABBA is also the most notable Eurovision winner, and were put directly into the spotlight following their win in the 1974 contest with their song ‘Waterloo’.

Well, if the potent mix of an unusual summer and an ABBA musical is not reason enough to visit Sweden, there is one more. That’s the ABBA museum which opened in Stockholm a few years ago. Here on display is, among others, Benny’s Piano. It’s a self-playing piano linked to band member Benny’s personal piano. When Benny plays his piano at home, so does this one at the museum!

An adrenaline rush-seeking travel writer who lives in Malmö, Sweden.

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