Kovalam, one of Kerala’s most celebrated tourist-attractions, was once a neglected, lonely spot. My parents, who seemed to specialise in finding unknown, but beautiful spots, bought it. It was full of rocks but if you stood on one it gave you the illusion of being able to touch the sea. The sea was near enough to feel its presence, but far enough not to be dangerous. They built a house there with granite all around. It seemed so much a part of the cliffs that it looked as though part of the rocks had risen up to form a house. Our lullaby was the sound of the waves breaking on the rocks. My father named the house Halcyon Castle, perhaps, because it had a tower.
Indira Varma, Sunday Magazine, The Hindu (December 25, 2005)
Kovalam, the famous seaside town 20 kilometres from Thiruvananthapuram, they say was put on the map in the times of Pooradam Thirunal Sethu Lakshmi Bayi (1895–1985), Indira Varma’s mother and the regent queen of erstwhile Travancore.
“In fact, it was her husband, Rama Varma Valiya Koil Thampuran, who purchased the land there. He gets the initial credit, but she designed the gardens while he did the building [Halycon Castle]. For the longest time, that beach was their personal preserve, but visiting guests and viceroys and governors were invited to use the property, play tennis by the arc lights and so on,” says Manu Pillai, author of The Ivory Throne, which delved into the life of the queen.
However, tumultuous changes in Travancore saw the Regent queen and her family shifting to Bengaluru, and in 1964, Valiya Koil Thampuran sold the property to the Government of India, and since then it has been the site of a luxury resort.
During the 70s, it shot to fame as an ideal place for backpackers. However, over the years, Kovalam’s sandy beaches, friendly waters and picturesque palm-lined shores often found a place among the top beaches in the world. Recently, Flightnetwork.com, one of the largest online travel publications, chose it as one of the top 10 beaches near cities.
While Kovalam continues to bask in the sun, there are many lesser-known but equally panaromic beaches, less than 100 kilometres from Thiruvananthapuram, all of which are ideal for a one-day trip. Each of these beaches has something unique to offer in addition to sand and blue waters capped with white surf.
A drive southward from Kovalam, takes one to Vizhinjam, Poovar, Adimalathura and Azhimala. An estuary at Poovar makes the long beach a serene place, although it can be crowded during weekends and holidays.
Here are five beaches to explore. The first one is South of Kovalam, while four are to the North.
Vattakottai, Kanyakumari district, Tamil Nadu
Scenic beach of historic Vattakottai in Kanyakumari district
Scenic beach of historic Vattakottai in Kanyakumari district
If the granite walls of Vattakottai fort could speak, they would tell stories of pirates, naval warfare and dashing warriors who came in from the sea.
Built by Captain Eustachius De Lannoy of the Dutch East India Company, the fort is built into the sea and has a magnificent view of the Western Ghats and the Arabian sea.
The fort has become a popular tourist spot, but the unspoilt black sandy beach is a delight. Major portions of auteur Padmarajan’s Moonampakkam were shot on this beach that was once filled with sea shells.
It is about 87 kilometres from Thiruvananthapuram.
Muthalapozhi, Perumathura
An estuary, this is where the languid, coconut palm-lined Vamanapuram river merges with the Arabian sea. Serene, Muthalapozhi offers two breathtaking views. A seawall has been built to protect the coast.
Ideal for both those looking for peace and those wanting a boisterous game of football or frisbee on the beach. Speed boats can be hired to feel the wind on your face. Shutterbugs can go for a leisurely walk along the palm-lined Vamanapuram river. If you are lucky, friendly neighbourhood fishermen will let you fish alongside them.
Perumathura is about 24 kilometres from Thiruvananthapuram .
Anchuthengu
A panaromic view of the seascape from Anchuthengu
A panaromic view of the seascape from Anchuthengu
Today, this is a seaside fishing hamlet with a lighthouse, old Portuguese-style churches and a dilapidated fort. Once, Anchuthengu, (meaning land of five coconut palms) was the centre of a Portuguese settlement that traded in pepper, rope and cloth. The British captured it and made it one of the earliest trade settlements of the East India Company, their very first in Kerala. Some of the families here still have surnames that trace their links to Europe.
However, the crowning glory is the lovely beach here, much of which is consumed by the sea during the monsoon. Gaily coloured fishing boats line up neatly on the beach, while fish is dried on mats near dwellings. Fishing nets are spread out to dry, as some elderly fishermen busy themselves repairing the nets. The beach is one of the cleanest on this stretch and has no touristy additions. But the sea can be rough once the tide sets in.
Anchuthengu is 30 kilometres from Thiruvananthapuram.
Kappil, Kollam
Kappil beach
Kappil beach
A ribbon of sand lies between the blue Arabian sea and greenish waters of the Edava-Nadayara lake. A tarred road snakes its way in between the sea and the backwaters. An exhilarating drive, the beach is now protected by a seawall. However, the beach does not attract too many visitors and it is a beautiful getaway when you are with friends and family. Although this is a scenic drive, there aren’t many eateries or stalls. Instead, take an early morning boat ride in the lake to see glimpses of rural life in Kerala and persuade a fisherman to sell you his catch.
Kappil in Kollam district is 53 kilometres from Thiruvananthapuram.
Mukkam, Mayyanad
An aerial view of Mayyanad beach in Kollam district
An aerial view of Mayyanad beach in Kollam district
Mukkam beach in Mayyanad, complete with a sand bar, has now become a popular spot for watersports such as kayaking, canoeing and boating. A local company is promoting adventure sports here.
Mukkam is approximately 60 kilometres from Thiruvananthapuram.
