In April earlier this year, Judy Frater, founder-director of Somaiya Kala Vidya, a Kutch-based institute for weavers, went to Kumaon in the Himalayan hills, for a collaborative outreach programme with Avani, an NGO that works with weavers. She was there for a week, along with her team of weavers, and during this visit, she gained newer perspectives. Judy met a senior woman weaver, Shantha Ben, who was visibly upset that all she could do was plain weaving. Looking at other patterns of weaving demonstrated by the Kutch weavers, she began to weep.
“One of our mentor weavers took her to the Avani centre which had stocked plain woven saris and told her, “These are beautiful. Don’t women buy these saris for their brilliant colours and texture?”She then unsterstood her expertise and talent. This interaction between weavers boosted her confidence,” says Judy.
“This is an example of how the SKV’s artisan-to-artisan programme works. A weaver quickly understands the language of a fellow weaver, and more over, an artisan trusts another artisan. They may not have a common language, but are quick to understand the language of weaving,” says Judy.
The selection of mentors is done by circulating the announcement of a upcoming outreach programme among the weavers of Kutch. Weavers who not only teach well, but are also willing to learn from other weavers are preferred. “The two weavers have to mutually inspire each other and create products,” she adds.
Last year, SKV brought its flagship project ‘Bhujodi to Bagalkot’, to Chennai, much to the delight of lovers of handloom. “The response was overwhelming and we were sold out. We are hence back this year with a wider selection of handloom saris, dupattas , scarves and stoles,” she says.
The exhibition, titled ‘Bhujodi to Bagalkot, Kutch to Kumaon’ will present exciting collaborations between the weavers of Kutch, Bagalkot, and Kumaon, bringing the work of 19 artisans, each with his or her own vision, to Chennai. f Colours inspired from Nature blend with textures of fine cotton and bamboo, eri, mulberry tassar and muga silk, warm desi and soft Merino wool.
The exhibition débuts a range of fresh artisan-designed work in natural fibres using ancient traditions. An Ilkal saris team brings stoles from the hills of Kumaon. “Ilkal saris feature the incredible but increasingly rare kondi technique — hand joining fine warps to make a silk pallu on a cotton body,” explains Judy.
The Kumaon stoles take the Avani speciality of pure wild fibers such as eri, tassar and muga silk, local wools with a bit of Merino and linen, and all natural colours, in a new direction.
“The weavers of Kumaon have done a collection based on pine, as the trees grow predominantly in their region. Each piece is unique. SKV shows us that tradition is more than technical genius. Today, Bhujodi weavers have the confidence to have developed their own brand, ‘Jeevadhara’ and market it themselves,” explains Judy.
The designers will present their collections and experiences in talks on all days of the exhibition, between 4 to 5 pm. The exhibition is on from September 6 to 8, 10 am to 8 pm, at The Folly, Amethyst, Royapettah. 45991633
