It is fascinating how 76-year-old Coach is becoming more relevant as a modern American luxury brand. With aggressive marketing and an approachability that makes it a millennial magnet, it is taking up residence in luxury malls across the world.
Credit, of course, goes to the British executive creative director Stuart Vevers. The Yorkshireman’s long-standing fascination with America has brought in references like hip-hop group Beastie Boys, the prairie landscape and New York. In the five years since he joined Coach, Vevers has given it a strong style upgrade with categories like ready-to-wear, shoes and jewellery. As for the bags, the mainstay of a leather goods brand, they continue to be on point. It is what he excelled at during stints at European fashion houses Bottega Veneta, Mulberry and Loewe.
To Vevers, 44, smart collaborations come easy. Recent partnerships with Disney (the Minnie Mouse edit) and a limited edition with his current brand ambassador, Selena Gomez, fuel his success story. With Gomez, the most followed celebrity on Instagram, he has designed a selection of crossbody bags, wristlets, even a yellow lightning bolt ornament.
“I've always loved that fashion is about change and moving forward,” he says, adding, “As a designer I'm fascinated by youth culture and counter culture, whether from the past or today.”
So while Bonnie Cashin, Coach’s first creative director, was responsible for introducing the iconic turnlock and designs like the bucket bag, it is Vevers who helped adopt a new lifestyle branding strategy that is seeing many millennial spenders. More from him:
Coach has journeyed from its leather goods origins and, thanks to you, now includes party dresses and buzzy shoes. What is its brand identity?
Coach’s roots in New York City guide the attitude of our girl and guy. They have an effortless ease and a light-hearted spirit that informs the way that we approach our collections. I think our designs need to express a sense of freedom and feel fresh – this is what Coach is about, pieces that are inherently cool with an informal attitude.
A lesson from your stints at Bottega Veneta, Mulberry and Loewe, where you are remembered for your success with bags?
To cut through, bags need to offer something new that catches your eye. Functionality is still key. I'm inspired by New York City, where people get dressed quickly, so fashion has to function and make people’s lives better.
Recent collections borrow from the archives - Bonnie Cashin’s duffel bags for instance. How does the past inform the present without being predictable?
My favourite moments in the archive were when risks had been taken and the aesthetic moved forward. I wanted to trust my instinct on how Coach could be relevant today. The heritage is there, but it’s in the past. At Coach, we are focussed on the present, not in an old world idea of luxury.
Early New York hip-hop influences and the great American outdoors are seen in your designs, but from a British perspective.
I am an outsider to America, so I romanticise it. I see telling the story of the Coach girl as an American dreamer. I sometimes think that not being from the country where the brand originated can actually be helpful. It means that you can explore obvious or more known references and not be too precious with them, since you didn't grow up with them.
How have your muses informed the design narrative?
I am inspired by the next generation of talent, girls that really express individuality and empowerment. I want to create a family; the Coach gang. Friends of the house are genuine friends of the brand that have supported us on this journey.
The Selena Gomez collection starts from ₹37,000 onwards at the new Coach Chennai Palladium store. Details: 044 61153025/26
