The evolution of cleansing

Balms, powders and oils – cleaning up has come a long way

May 19, 2017 03:46 pm | Updated 03:46 pm IST

Young beauty woman removing makeup in the bathroom

Young beauty woman removing makeup in the bathroom

When I was younger, cleansing meant removing every molecule of dirt, grime, make-up and natural oil from my face. Foamier was better because harsh felt wonderful on my skin, which was super oily and acne prone.

Now that I’m older (and wiser) I feel like it was the equivalent of using detergent. I should have just dipped my face in a bowlful of Nirma.

I only understood the importance of correct cleansing after I met Kuala Lumpur-based Dr Ruban Nathan, who I was interviewing for a story for Harper’s Bazaar Malaysia.

My skin was red and reactive during those days. He took one look at my face and asked me which cleanser I used. Now, I don’t want to name names, but my face wash was touted to be one of the best. To give you a hint it was a dark amber-coloured liquid and the brand advertised in every big magazine. How could something splashed all over the media, be so harmful for my skin? But it was. Because the moment I changed to Cetaphil, my skin became calmer and smoother.

And that, my friends, is the power of your cleanser - it can either make or break your skin.

When women tell me about their skin problems I first ask how they clean their face. And, invariably, they use some super-fragranced, alcohol and soap-ridden drugstore face wash. And some of these washes even come with labels like ‘natural’, which makes us believe that it is actually good for our skin. In my opinion, even pure soap is better than a foaming face wash because it doesn’t contain as many toxins.

If you have normal to dry skin then you can also massage in any pure cold-pressed oil like coconut or sweet almond. Then dip a towel in hot water and wipe off the oil. Nothing removes makeup and grime better than this oil-based technique. Mist with rose water to finish and then thank me for your glowing skin.

With the rise of double cleansing, there are so many more options than soap and oil, although I’m always a fan of the basics. Double cleansing is a technique where you use a makeup remover first, and then follow up with your usual cleanser. Women also use Clarisonic (a sonic cleansing brush) with their cleanser to make sure that they are removing every bit of grime from within their pores. Sounds intense? I think so.

To me, double cleansing makes sense if I’m wearing 24-hour, long-wearing foundation, powder, concealer, blush, highlighter, eye makeup, lipstick… the works.

How many Indian women wear so many layers of makeup? It would be a miracle if we slapped on some sunscreen. On a daily basis, I find that I wear a touch of concealer, face powder and some lipstick. To take this off, just using a really nice cleansing oil is enough.

I take two pumps of product (I’m using Kiehl’s Midnight Recovery Cleansing Oil), and take some time to massage it into my face and neck. I then add a few drops of water to emulsify it into a sort of lotion, which I also massage into my skin, and then I wash it off. No need to double cleanse.

If my skin is not feeling oily in the morning, then I just wipe it with some rosewater. Over-cleansing can also make your skin a bit sensitive. But that said, there are so many new types of cleansers flooding the market. There are balms that are great to deep cleanse and remove makeup, but they suit dry skin better. Persoanlly, I prefer Clinique’s Take the Day Off Cleansing Balm.

The latest offering in the beauty scene are cleansing powders, which are great for oily skin. I like the Dior Hydralife Cleansing Powder that makes skin look poreless.

However, the only caveat is that powders cannot be used around the eyes, so you will have to use eye makeup remover first.

The point I’m trying to make is that there are so many cleansers now that there’s sure to be one that is a perfect fit for your skin. It could be soap, it could be oil, it could be balm or powder.

Find the one that works for you and doesn’t make your skin react. Because the right cleanser can transform your skin.

A fortnightly column to remind you about all things skin deep

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